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Outside Traveler 2004

Adventure Lodges
Top 10 Hideaways
The Kuna Lodge, Panama; Spring House Farm, NC; Ultima Thule Lodge, AK; & Tu Tu' Tun Lodge, OR

Bear Mountain Lodge, NM; Bob Marshall Wilderness Range, MT; & Moose Mountain Lodge, NH | Hotel de Larache, Chile; Casa Cerro Sagrado, Mexico; & Rifugio Tissi, Italy | The Kuna Lodge, Panama; Spring House Farm, NC; Ultima Thule Lodge, AK; & Tu Tu' Tun Lodge, OR

7. Sapibenega, Panama
The Kuna Lodge
Access & Resources
  7. The Kuna Lodge
Huts cost $90 per person per day, based on double occupancy, including all meals, nonalcoholic drinks, and two guided excursions a day. 011-507-225-8819, www.sapibenega.com

8. Spring House Farm
Cottages cost $220 and up per night, including breakfast and snacks; weekly rates start at $1,254. 877-738-9798, www.springhousefarm.com

9. Ultima Thule Lodge
The all-inclusive rate (with meals, drinks, air transportation from Chitina, all sporting activities, and gear) is $5,400 per person per week. 907-688-1200, www.ultimathulelodge.com

10. Tu Tu' Tun Lodge
Doubles cost $145-$375. A daily meal package ($53 per person) includes breakfast and a four-course dinner. 800-864-6357, www.tututun.com

 
From 5,000 feet, the 360-plus islands of Panama's Archipiélago San Blas glint like diamonds scattered over the deep-blue Caribbean. Operated by the native Kuna Indians, the lodge and 13 bamboo huts dot the perimeter of Sapibenega, a private island no bigger than a soccer field. The Kuna Lodge is a hideaway camp where extranjeros can indulge their castaway fantasies and still have a thatch roof over their heads and three Kuna-inspired meals a day.
ROOM & BOARD: From any vantage point on Sapibenega, there are surreal 360-degree views of more than a dozen neighboring coconut-choked islands. The Kuna huts sleep up to four and, though sandswept and remote, are relatively luxurious, with solar electricity, composting toilets, and showers. In the main lodge, head chef Onesimo prepares grilled lobster, crab, and tulemasi, a coconut-broth soup with local fish and plantains, and lets the local rum, known as inna in the Kuna language, flow freely.
OUT THE BACK DOOR: From the lodge's beach, catch a cayuco (a motorized dugout) to nearby uninhabited islands or to snorkeler-friendly coral reefs teeming with aquarium fish—and even toothier specimens, such as great barracuda and dolphin fish. Or head to the mainland for a guided trek to the 15-foot-high Diwar Dumad waterfall and a swim in its freshwater lagoon.—Ted Stedman
Adventure Lodges
Cottages at Spring House Farm (Courtesy, Cottages at Spring House Farm)

8. Marion, North Carolina
The Cottages at Spring House Farm
When Arthur and Zee Anne Campbell and their 13-year-old son, Cailein, restored the historic Albertus Ledbetter House and built cottages nearby in 1999, their top priority was to preserve the 180-year-old pre–Civil War farmhouse and the 92 acres of surrounding hardwood forest. The five secluded guest cottages share the quiet solitude of these hemlock woods with only the resident turkeys and deer. Explore the mountainous hiking trails of western North Carolina, borrow a canoe and paddle two ponds, and end with a soak in a private hot tub, studying the starry night sky.
ROOM & BOARD: Each of the two-person cottages has a wood-burning fireplace, hot tub, private deck, queen- or king-size bed with a down comforter, gas grill, and kitchen stocked with eggs, bread, jams, and other necessities for a country breakfast. For dinner, cook from your own stash or buy what the lodge keeps in stock, including chicken, pork chops, pizza, baked potatoes, and salad fixings. Flying Bridge cottage has a four-person hot tub overlooking the trout pond. The best cottage for wildlife watching is the Bimini Twist, totally surrounded by forest.
OUT THE BACK DOOR: Hit the farm's five-mile trail system, kept a comfortable temperature by the canopy overhead, or drive 20 minutes southeast to the 1,000-plus acres of Chimney Rock Park and hike the Skyline-Cliff Trail to the top of 404-foot Hickory Nut Falls, a mile and a half round-trip. If you want to paddle something bigger than the farm's ponds, go to Lake Lure, near the park, and rent a kayak, canoe, or paddleboat.—Kimberly Lisagor

9. Chitina, Alaska
Ultima Thule Lodge
The moment the bush plane brushes the gravel runway at Ultima Thule Lodge, you are officially 100 miles from nowhere. Bounded to the north by the salmon-thick Chitina River and backed by the turquoise glaciers of the Wrangell Mountains, which top out at 16,000 feet, the family-run lodge is all-inclusive in a uniquely Alaskan way. At your disposal: planes, whitewater rafts, kayaks, hearty meals, warm beds, and the 13 million acres of Wrangell–St. Elias National Park and Preserve that surround the lodge.
ROOM & BOARD: The dozen log cabins and lodge, furnished with downy beds and glass-front wood stoves, are clustered along the riverbank. Paths lead to a bathhouse with a wood-fired wet sauna and the dining hall, where a 20-foot pine table showcases steaming plates of local salmon, organic greens harvested from the garden, and microbrews flown in from Anchorage.
OUT THE BACK DOOR: With Alaskan summer days as long as 20 hours, an Ultima Thule "day" trip could mean an expedition to 16,390-foot Mount Blackburn, a walk along the iceberg-calving Gulf of Alaska, or a dogsled ride across the glaciers that embellish the national park—all with the assistance of the lodge's guides and experienced bush pilot.—Lolly Merrell

Adventure Lodges
Tu Tu' Tun Lodge (Holly Stickley Photography)

10. Gold Beach, Oregon
Tu Tu' Tun Lodge
The Tu Tu' Tun Lodge (pronounced too-TOOT-in) borrows its name from the Tututui, a band of Indians on the Lower Rogue whose name means "people by the water." It's a fitting title for this elegant Rogue River hideaway, seven miles inland from southern Oregon's craggy coast on a grassy knoll just above the river.
ROOM & BOARD: Each evening, a school bell summons guests to gather around the giant river-rock fireplace in the main lodge and nibble on hors d'oeuvres such as shrimp kebabs and home-smoked salmon and cheeses. What follows is a four-course, apple-and-mesquite-grilled feast—including chinook salmon and bread baskets brimming with hot lemon-cranberry popovers—prepared by longtime chef Margaret Pohl. The 16 guest rooms and two suites come with river views and beds piled with pillows.
OUT THE BACK DOOR: The Rogue River, famous for its fly-fishing, sees consistent runs of Chinook and steelhead salmon. Local guides take guests upriver to the Wild and Scenic section that's accessible by permit only. You can also borrow one of the lodge's six sea kayaks to paddle the river among otters and beavers, or explore the rugged, mostly undeveloped coastline that stretches about 20 miles in either direction from the town of Gold Beach.—Sarah Max


Bear Mountain Lodge, NM; Bob Marshall Wilderness Range, MT; & Moose Mountain Lodge, NH | Hotel de Larache, Chile; Casa Cerro Sagrado, Mexico; & Rifugio Tissi, Italy | The Kuna Lodge, Panama; Spring House Farm, NC; Ultima Thule Lodge, AK; & Tu Tu' Tun Lodge, OR





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