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Most packs have an internal pouch for a HYDRATION RESERVOIR and ports for hose pass-through. Good: You stay hydrated. Bad: They're a pain to pull out and refill. If the lid can handle a bladder, you get the best of both worlds.
1) Shoulder LIFT STRAPS pull weight against your upper back for balance.
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2) Generally, a backpack's FABRIC is a very strong isotope of nylon. You pay more for lighter-weight versions that still have great strength. All are treated to repel water, but none is waterproof; seams invite a damp payload.
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3) Most packs provide a TORSO-LENGTH ADJUSTMENT so that the hipbelt rides on the upper portion of your hip bones and the shoulder straps wrap over your shoulder blades when the pack is loaded. Have a shop professional do the tweaking.
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4) Together, the HIPBELT and SHOULDER STRAPS are Comfort Central. Firm foam is more supportive, especially if reinforced with plastic. Soft foam sags. Multiple-density foam puts a soft stratum against your body.
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5) Lean long-weekend packs dispense with such weight-penalty niceties as side and front pockets. LAST POINTS let you strap on need-it-quick necessities like a rain jacket. For a long weekend or hut-to-hut hiking sans tent, look for CAPACITY in the high 3,000- to low 4,000-cubic-inch range; for weeklong trips, you'll want the mid to upper 5,000's. Buy for your longer trips; you don't have to fill it up!
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6) WATER-BOTTLE POCKETS are used more these days to stash long, vertical bits like tent poles and sleeping pad; be sure that compression straps are there to lash 'em down.
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7) A pack's INTERNAL FRAME is your load-transfer system. The full-blown version has two aluminum stays and a stiff plastic framesheet but limits your flexibility. Less-beefy frames let you reach and swivel like Alvin Ailey but dictate a lower LOAD LIMIT—ideal for weekend jaunts.
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8) Most packs are TOP-LOADERS. Panel access and sleeping-bag compartments are handy but not critical; put stuff you frequently need at the top.
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