BEFORE YOU RIDE
> INFLATE TIRES to the recommended range, usually 35 to 60 psi for mountain bikes, 100 to 115 psi for road bikes. Make certain your spare tube, tire levers, and pump are all healthy and on board.

> GIVE BOTH BRAKE LEVERS a firm squeeze. Brake pads should hit rims (never touching the tires) squarely, and the levers shouldn't bottom out against the bars.

> A LOOSE WHEEL is a potential disaster. Be sure the quick-release lever is properly secured.

> GIVE A QUICK TUG to other parts, like water-bottle cages, handlebars, seat, and cranks, to make sure nothing's about to fall off.

> CHECK YOUR FRONT SHOCK by leaning on it, hard. If it chatters, put a few drops of lube under the boots (the accordion-like rubber sleeves). Still rough? Hotfoot it to the shop. Ditto for the rear shock. If your shocks are air-sprung, make sure to pump up to the recommended pressure for your body weight.

> CLEAN AND LUBE your chain. Scrub the whole drivetrain with citrus degreaser and a toothbrush. Spin the pedals backward and dribble lubricant on the roller parts of the links as they pass by; wait a few minutes and then thoroughly wipe to remove the excess. Lube every few rides; clean half as often.

QUICK FIXES
> DOES THE FRONT END RATTLE?Your headset is loose. Loosen the two bolts on the side of the stem, and tighten (half a turn) the single bolt on top of the stem. Retighten the side bolts. Repeat until the
clunk is gone, but make sure the bars still turn freely.

> GEARS SLIPPING? Turn the adjusting barrel where the cable enters the rear derailleur; start with one counterclockwise turn.

> BRAKES dragging on one side? On mountain bikes, use a screwdriver or hex wrench to turn the spring-balancing screws on the outside of the brake arm, near the pivot point. Roadies can just twist the whole brake caliper by hand until it's centered.