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1) STIFFER FABRIC behind the zipper prevents maddening snags.
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2) SYNTHETIC INSULATIONS, such as Polarguard Delta, PrimaLoft PL2, and DuPont Thermolite, continue to get lighter and softer. They won't compress as neatly as their down equivalents, but they can be easily machine-washed and -dried.
DOWN's ability to insulate is measured in fill power—the volume, in cubic inches, occupied by one ounce of unrestrained feathers. Down measuring 600 to 650 fill is excellent quality; the very best down can be 800. But you need the extra quality only if saving every ounce is vital.
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3) Manufacturers are pushing the limits of ultralight SHELL FABRICS (some weigh less than an ounce per square yard). Most have a DWR (durable water-repellent) coating. The latest trick? Eliminating stitching (and stitching holes) by WELDING baffle material to the shell.
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4) Look for NICE TOUCHES like a microsanded polyester or Pertex lining to give the illusion of sleeping on silk. A sleeve, or locking loops, that holds your sleeping pad will protect you from a 4 a.m. encounter with the cold tent floor.
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5) The classic MUMMY-SHAPED BAG is best for heat retention and weight savings, but the tighter ones can be claustrophobic. Try before you buy. For mild conditions, consider a semi-rectangular bag, with plenty of room to thrash.
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6) Look for a DRAFT TUBE behind the zipper, too. And about zippers: One that's full-length zip lets you ventilate on warmer nights.
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7) A HOOD adds tremendous warmth. So does a draft collar, which prevents heat loss around your neck.
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8) While more expensive, a DOWN BAG will likely last two to three times longer than a synthetic sack, making feathers the economical long-term choice. And nothing matches down on warmth-to-weight ratio or softness. But don't get it wet—soaked down offers about as much insulation value as sheet metal.
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