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Outside Magazine June 2003

Fitness, Health, and Nutrition for the Outside Athlete
Chalk It Up
Up Against the Wall

By Clyde Soles

Intro | Up Against the Wall | Elevation Gains | Grow Stronger, Go Longer | The Iron Mountain


	(John Clark)

IF YOUR CHOSEN route involves more moves than miles, spend a couple of hours a week in the climbing gym. While nailing your technique, you'll be complementing your strength training. "Climbing has its own level of coordination," observes Hubbell. "Get on the rock at a gym so that you're establishing strength as well as conditioning neurons." Although scaling prefab handholds bolted to plywood isn't the same as getting out of sticky situations on real granite, you can't beat the hours, proximity, lack of rain and bird poop, and year-round availability. A visit twice a week will adequately prepare you to take on long routes of moderate difficulty, like the Exum Route on Grand Teton (19 pitches, 5.7).

For multipitch endurance, start by climbing up and down the wall (no rappelling) for up to ten minutes. Rest for three and repeat until you're wasted. Then, to teach your muscles to function when your mind says they can't, try bouldering—a series of difficult maneuvers that last ten to 40 seconds over five to ten different holds. It may not seem like much time, but trust us: Your quivering muscles will need at least four minutes to recover from each series.

With enough experience, you'll be able to tackle those natural walls outside without having to worry about losing your grip.

Next Page: Elevation Gains

Intro | Up Against the Wall | Elevation Gains | Grow Stronger, Go Longer | The Iron Mountain

CLYDE SOLES is the author of Climbing: Training for Peak Performance (Mountaineers Books, 2002).