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Outside Magazine June 2003

Fitness, Health, and Nutrition for the Outside Athlete
Chalk It Up
The Iron Mountain

By Clyde Soles

Intro | Up Against the Wall | Elevation Gains | Grow Stronger, Go Longer | The Iron Mountain

LIFTING WEIGHTS IS ESSENTIAL if you want to make it above tree line. Besides improving overall strength, you'll buttress opposing muscle groups that don't see action when you're just climbing (think pushing versus pulling), thereby staving off potential trip-ending injuries.

If you follow our conditioning schedule (see "The Weekly Plan," below), you'll head to the weight room twice a week for four months, ramping up for the big climb. On the first workout day of the week, you'll "lift heavy" to build power. Complete the entire circuit of exercises at right, but do only one set of six to ten reps, depending on the exercise, with heavy weight—just enough to completely exhaust you by the end of the set. For your second workout of the week, lighten the load by a third and complete three sets of ten to 14 reps per exercise—increasing reps increases muscle endurance. By alternating the weight-to-rep ratio of your workouts, you avoid the stagnation of the same old routine.

1 SQUAT (Day 1: 1x6 reps | Day 2: 3x10 reps)
The best lift for climbers. Squats train all the lower body's major muscle groups, work stabilizers and core muscles, improve joint stability by strengthening tendons in the knees, and increase bone density. Ease into your squat sets without weights—just till you get your form dialed—then move on to using dumbbells. Graduate to squatting with a barbell of manageable heft.

2 STATIC LUNGE (Day 1: 1x10 reps/leg | Day 2: 3x14 reps/leg)
This move gives you strong legs for ascending and descending the steeps, and its asymmetrical position fires the same stabilizer muscles used when negotiating tricky scree fields or making high steps. Start without weights, then move on to lifting a third of the total weight you squat.

3 CALF RAISE (Day 1: 1x10 reps | Day 2: 2x10 reps)
Front-pointing up endless snow slopes or carrying absurdly heavy loads can leave your calves screaming for mercy. Prepare them by doing straight-leg calf raises.

4 LAT PULLDOWN (Day 1: 1 x6 reps | Day 2: 3x10 reps)
Even if climbing is already part of your regimen, lat pulls will make you stronger faster, since the major muscles are worked to fatigue much quicker than on a pitch. Vary your body angle (leaning back versus sitting upright) and hand position for each set to simulate the variety of body positions you'll use on a wall.

5 INCLINE PRESS (Day 1: 1x8 reps | Day 2: 2x12 Reps)
Chest presses prevent the injury-inducing muscle imbalances that result from having an overdeveloped back. The incline press works the pectorals and deltoids; using dumbbells allows a full range of motion and develops the shoulder's rotator-cuff stabilizers.

6 SEATED ROW (Day 1: 1 x 8 reps | Day 2: 3 x 12 reps)
Strong biceps and back muscles are essential for cranking a route, and the seated row trains these muscles for the strong moves often needed to make high reaches on rock or ice.

7 CRUNCH (Day 1: 1 x 10 reps | Day 2: 3 x 14 reps)
Strong abdominals provide your whole body with greater control on everything from overhanging sport routes to classic alpine lines. Use a stability ball to work the entire stomach. As you get stronger, add resistance—not reps—by holding a small weight plate behind your head.

8 BACK EXTENSION (Both Days: 3 x 14 reps)
Together with your abs, your spinal muscles help you flow up a climb. With improved strength, they'll prevent debilitating injuries. Lie on your stomach across a stability ball, legs spread and arms behind your waist, then arch your back. To take it up a notch, lace your hands behind your neck.