Podcast Version:

ON THE LIST OF TERMS used to describe American travelers abroad, savvy
and daring have generally ranked right below thin and quiet.
For most Yanks, riding the Paris Metro without deodorant used to be about as
adventurous as it got. And that's just how I liked it. As one of the few thrill-hungry
Americans with a tattered passport and a healthy disregard for State Department
warnings, I've actually been able to make a living writing about travel. In
fact, that's been my whole identity. I'm the guy at the party with the story
about being confronted by a Bolivian gunman on a bridge. (I usually skip the
part about how he only wanted me to buy $5 in raffle tickets for a school fundraiser.)
Then I ease into a casual bit about surfing with an expat named "Pirate" off
Muslim islands in the Philippines. I pause for effect, then drop the clincher—the
tale about dodging Maoists in a remote sector of Nepal. I say it just like that,
too: "a remote sector of Nepal." Oh, how the ladies swoon.
| Dont Go There |
(OFFICIAL TRAVEL WARNINGS FROM AROUND THE WORLDABOUT US) U.K. "Do not make flippant remarks about bombs or terrorism,
especially when passing through U.S. airports." CHINA "The unchecked
spread of guns has caused incessant murders." GERMANY "It should
definitely be noted that nude swimming and even changing clothes on the beach
are viewed as causing a public disturbance." CANADA "The health
and security situation in most of New Orleans remains difficult." FRANCE
"The majority of homicides take place in public and are notably tied to drug trafficking." |
Or used to swoon, because something has changed. Suddenly I'm coming across
my fellow countrymen in bars and buses from Caracas to Cairo. And now I have
to agree with the graffiti: YANKEE, GO HOME. If you keep popping up in the "exotic"
settings of my stories and discovering for yourselves how easy it is to come
home unscathed, I'm going to have to find real work. When I pull out my gunman
story at a cocktail party these days, I'm likely to be one-upped by some guy
in khakis showing off snapshots of his fiancée posing with Thai soldiers on
their way to seizing Bangkok. "You know, the September coup," he'll say. A coup!
How do I top that?
Actually, I probably never will. The surprising truth is that Americans haven't
just recovered from the post-9/11 jitters that scared them away from airports
altogether; they're traveling more adventurously than ever before, disregarding
political instability, monsoon seasons, and malaria. After a coup in Fiji in
2000, Susan Tanzman, owner of Los Angelesbased Martin's Travel and Tours, saw
75 percent of her Fiji-bound clients immediately cancel their trips, like good,
predictable 'fraidy cats. Fast-forward to Thailand last September: There's Major
General Thawip Netniyom—our friendly putschman, fresh from overthrowing the
government—telling the cameras, "When you talk about a coup,' it's not really
as bad as you think." And there were the Americans—believing him. A few businessmen
canceled their meetings, but the tourists didn't blink. In fact, they pounced.
A friend of mine decided it would be a great time to hunt for bargains to Bangkok.
She found a steal. "Five years ago they wouldn't have stayed," Tanzman says.
"No way." Now, a government falls in Southeast Asia and people are on Expedia
looking for hotel discounts. Isn't Switzerland due for a coup?
I'm not being paranoid here, either. Indications from all over the globe show
that Americans are sacking up like never before. Remember that jelly-bomb fright
at Heathrow last August? Air traffic from the U.S. to Europe actually increased
over the following month, with North American carriers reporting the most crowded
flights. And those once exotic places that people like you knew only from the
stories that people like me wrote? Guided tours! Next year, Mountain Travel
Sobek, one of the largest and oldest adventure travel outfitters, plans to offer
packages to Egypt, even though bombs have killed more than 100 people in the
Sinai since 2004. The company is also offering new trips to formerly spooky
spots like Mauritania and the Republic of Georgia. For $4,195, Wilderness Travel
will take you camping in Libya. Libya!
Maybe I did my job too well. (Modesty is for hacks.) Maybe I should have written
less about fine white sand and more about black-market moneychangers or the
time my brother got pooped on in Peru. Or maybe it's simply that, as home felt
less secure, the rest of the world gradually appeared less scary by comparison.
But there's no doubt that Americans have either gotten over their fear or learned
to live with it. "After you've been traumatized, you become anxious and hypervigilant,"
says Robin Dea, a chief psychiatrist at Kaiser Permanente who deals with victims
of violence. "But that anxiety goes extinct pretty quickly if nothing happens
to you again."
Of course, caution will always have its place. There are truly reckless decisions
a traveler can make, and sometimes even the most adventurous of us just wants
pretty sunsets and shopping malls free of soldiers. But when it comes to going
off the beaten path, all it takes is a little bit of extra time to assess things
for yourself. That's how you find the best trips, the ones that are both exciting
and safe, even with tanks. But with Americans taking a month longer to plan
overseas vacations than they did several years ago, I guess everyone's figured
that out, which sucks.