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Outside Magazine, July 1998
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Make Mine Raw (Cont.)
North Carolina's Outer Realm

Twenty-three miles long, Portsmouth Island, part of Cape Lookout National Seashore, is a primitive haven for birdwatchers, fishermen, sailors, and ocean junkies. It once boasted Portsmouth Village, the largest town on the Outer Banks, but hurricanes and Civil War evacuations eventually turned the village into a ghost town of a dozen historic cottages, a post office, and a well-preserved Methodist church — still a popular spot to tie the knot.

Getting There: Morris Marina (252-225-4261), in Atlantic, operates car-ferry service to Portsmouth Island. Boats depart three times daily; round-trip fare is $13 per person, $65 per vehicle.

On Your Own: Perhaps the best way to explore Portsmouth and environs is from the deck of a 16-foot motorboat, with Captain You at the helm. Rent one in Ocracoke from Byron Miller (252-928-5480) for $95 a day. Keep in mind, however, that private boats must be anchored offshore, and stock up on supplies before you go, since there are no grocery stores on Portsmouth. If your plans include catching dinner, Tradewinds (252-928-5491), a full-service fishing shop in Ocracoke, can give you the latest on what's biting where—no license is required.

Outfitters: Ocracoke Adventures (252-928-7873) offers half-day, naturalist-guided sea-kayak trips ($35). Fishermen, meanwhile, may avail themselves of the local wisdom provided by Dave Nagel, captain of The Drumstick (800-825-5351), who runs deep-sea excursions for $650 per day.

Where to Bunk: Morris Marina Kabin Kamps ($100-$110 per night; 252-225-4261) offers Portsmouth's only overnight accommodations. Each of its 20 cabins sleeps six. Camping is free and allowed almost everywhere, but fires are permitted only below the high-tide line. For more information, call Cape Lookout National Seashore at 252-728-2250.



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