Canoeing & Sailing in Maryland & Virginia - Chesapeake Bay

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Outside Magazine, October 2000

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Dispatches: Paddling
Chesapeake Bay
Where the water is calm, the camping great—and the sea kayaking takes you to a world of beautiful swimmers

By Tim Neville


	Salt marshes at the southern tip of Chesapeake Bay (Scott Neville)

IN THE MIDDLE of Chesapeake Bay, just 20 miles as the crow flies from the eastern seaboard megalopolis, sits a strand of marshy, nearly deserted islands where great blue herons, ospreys, and black ducks thrive, and where, in fall's cooler temperatures, you'd be crazy not to launch a kayak. In October, you'll miss the last Indian summer tourists and have the Bay almost all to yourself.

Set out from Tangier or Smith Islands, the only two inhabited landmasses in the Chesapeake's southern channels and you'll commingle with a smorgasbord of sea life: rockfish, herring, bay anchovies, oysters, and the legendary, though sadly depleted, blue crabs. Paddle north across Kedges Straits to the dozen or so uninhabited, privately owned stretches of land not much bigger than sandbars; they're great places to embrace a quintessential Chesapeake pastime, "proggin'". From the verb "to progue," "proggin'" is localese for combing the shores and shallows for arrowheads, antique bottles, and other treasures left over from the Algonquin Indians who fished here more than 400 years ago and the colonial fishermen who ruled these waters back in the 17th century.

In spring, summer, and fall, you'll find shells left behind by molting blue crabs—a local delicacy you should resist for now, since this past summer saw a deep decline in the once-plentiful crustacean's numbers. Instead, look for littleneck and cherrystone clams, two small, succulent varieties found in the shallows of the southern Bay. Holes in the ocean bottom the size of a quarter give them away. Just pick 'em out of the mud, rinse, steam, and eat with melted butter. Heaven. Ready to go?

The Southern Bay Islands
The point of kayaking Smith and Tangier Islands isn't to paddle around them, but to paddle into them. Both islands are etched by canals (Big Gut Canal, for example, the "main street" of Tangier village, runs the length of the island's southern side). From Smith's northern shore you can kayak into the eight-square-mile Martin National Wildlife Refuge, where one of the largest groups of East Coast great blue herons nests. Another option: The seven-mile stretch between the two islands makes for a perfect day trip across Tangier Sound. Plan on at least six hours of paddling, and allow time to stop off on Goose Island along the way for an excellent round of progging. Be sure to choose your route based on the tides, which flow at up to three knots (check the weekly Crisfield Times for local tide schedules).

More Bay Days

Sailing
Cape Charles, Virginia, on the Bay side of Delmarva's southern tip, is a port of call with quiet B&Bs, clam- and oyster-stocked restaurants, and lightly trafficked waters. For sailing instruction, Low Sea Company (757-710-1233) teaches all levels on 63-foot schooners.

Boardsailing
Twenty-mile-per-hour thermals blow across the shallow Assawoman Bay just to the west of Ocean City, Maryland, and Sinepuxent Bay, a few miles south. For epic air, head for OC's Atlantic beaches. Sailing Etc. (410-723-1144) rents sailboards for $20 per hour or $60 per day.

North of Kedges Straits
Paddle north of Smith across the deep, fast-flowing Kedges Straits, and you'll reach wide-open water, where the only traffic you'll see is the occasional oyster or crab boat. Since virtually all the islands in this area are privately owned and the trip is too long to paddle up and back in a single day, you'll have to hook up with an approved outfitter who has permission to camp. But the paddle alone is worth it: The islands in this part of Chesapeake Bay sit two or three miles apart, most of them just long, narrow strips of cordgrass and sand so small that they aren't mapped. Many are slowly eroding and may not even exist in 20 years. A few yards off the shore of one northern beauty, Holland Island—once home to a fishing village that was abandoned in 1920 and now a popular campsite for outfitted-kayaking groups—you can paddle over tombstones and the submerged brick foundation of the former houses.

The Virginia Islands
Along the southern Atlantic coast of the Delmarva Peninsula (a skinny finger of rural farmland that is part Delaware, part Maryland, and part Virginia) lie 13 barrier islands whose 45,000 acres make up The Nature Conservancy's Virginia Coast Reserve. You can visit all but three of the islands and paddle your heart out through preserved salt marsh on the eastern shores, where you might see ospreys, pelicans, egrets, or a bald eagle. Or paddle along the pristine Atlantic-side beaches and scout for dolphins.

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