The Indigo Outback (cont.)

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Outside Magazine February 2002

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The Indigo Outback (cont.)
Access and Resources

The Cocos Islands offer everything you need—surfing, scuba diving, fishing, and sea kayaking—and nothing you don't. It may be pricey to fly there, but once you arrive, you can easily get by on less than $50 a day (including bar tab). The only golden rule is this: Be polite and ask permission from the residents before you pitch a tent on any of their pristine blond beaches.

Getting there: Round-trip flights from Los Angeles to Perth on Air New Zealand (800-262-1208; www.airnewzealand.com) cost $1,850-$2,100 per person. Two flights per week on National Jet Systems (book through Island Bound Holidays, which can also arrange accommodations, 011-61-8-9381-3644; www.islandbound.com.au) depart from Perth for the five-hour trip to the Cocos Islands. Round-trip airfare runs about $872 per person.

Where to stay: Camp free of charge virtually anywhere, but you need to run your plans by the Cocos Islands Shire Council first (011-61-8-91-62-6649). There are only five lodging options, all on West Island. Try the recently renovated Hermit Lodge (doubles US$340 per week; 011-61-8-9162-6515; www.cocossolutions.cc), which has two apartments and a four-bed, bare-bones, backpacker-style bunkhouse, and is just yards from the beach. The three Balinese-style Cocos Cottages (doubles, US$548 per week; 011-61-8-91-9244-3801) sleep four people and have giant verandas.

Food: Think PB&J and grilled burgers: There's only one grocery store and one restaurant, both on West Island and both open only when they want to be. To stave off those hunger pains, take your fly rod and head to the flats to fish for trevally, sweetlip, and barracuda.

Know Before You Go

What to Bring: The Gear to Get You There

Access and Resources

Getting around: You can rent a car, bike, or scooter on West Island, but you don't really need any of them. A small bus picks passengers up from the dock at the north end of the island, where you can take the free 25-minute ferry ride to and from Home Island four times daily. Plan on spending at least one day on Home Island, but respect the Muslim residents by wearing conservative clothing. Terry Washer at the Cocos Island Tourism Association (011-61-8-9162-6790; info@cocos-tourism.cc) can answer any questions regarding diving, surfing, fishing, and camping. For further information visit www.cocos-tourism.cc.

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