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Outside Magazine, July 2005

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Destinations: Croatia
Balkan Surprise (cont.)
Access & Resources

Getting There \\ Fly from New York to Dubrovnik via Frankfurt on Lufthansa (from $1,510; 800-645-3880, www.lufthansa.com); or from New York to Dubrovnik via Vienna on Austrian Airlines (from $1,260; 800-843-0002, www.aua.com)

Prime Time \\ June, July, and August account for two-thirds of the annual visitor

Map of Croatia

Check out Marco Cibola's map of Croatia

totals, and during those months you will want to reserve ahead of time, as there's nothing quite so disappointing as showing up on an island only to find all of its accommodations booked solid and no ferries back until the next day. Your best bet may be to opt for September, when the weather is just as nice and the water almost as warm, but the crowds are halved.

Getting Around \\ Trains, such a travel mainstay elsewhere in Europe, will do you little good in Croatia. Luckily, the bus service is reliable, well organized, and reasonably comfortable, connecting all the cities and ports of the coast with one another and with inland cities at regular intervals. You may have to pay about $1 per bag to check your luggage. Renting a car is also a good option, as the road system has been massively upgraded since the war, with a system of highways linking the major cities. (Yes, you'll have to pay a $10–$15 toll). Budget (www.budget.com) has rental locations throughout the country. But the highlight of any Croatian trip is the islands, so it's only fitting that the transportation highlight should be the vast ferry system; most ferry services are run by the state-owned Jadrolinija (www.jadrolinija.com), supplemented by a few small private operators in busier areas. The ferry journey from Rijeka down to Dubrovnik (daily during the summer), running the whole length of the coast, offers a hop-on, hop-off through-ticket, allowing you to explore islands along the way.

Exploring \\ Croatia Luxe: Live like a 19th-Century aristocrat: The Regent Esplanade (doubles from $276; 800-545-4000), in Zagreb, was once known as one of Europe's grandest hotels. These days it's the resting spot of choice for the steady stream of venture capitalists who come to test the Croatian waters. The Grand Hotel Kvarner (doubles from $84; 011-385-51-271-233, www.pro.hr/hotel/kvarner), in Opatija, opened in 1884 and once was the vacation spot of Austro-Hungarian emperors. The waterfront hotel has seen better days but retains an unmistakable grandeur, from the Crystal Ballroom to the expansive terrace. And in Dubrovnik, the recently renovated Pucic Palace hotel (doubles, $616; 011-385-20-326-222, www.thepucicpalace.com) occupies a swank 17th-century palace within the old city walls. \\ Sail the Adriatic: The most stylish way to appreciate the Adriatic is via sailboat. Nearly every town on the coast and islands has an equipped marina. If you find yourself yachtless, fear not: A number of companies rent yachts either bareboat or with a skipper. To find your own 26- to 54-foot floating fun hog, try Sail Croatia (www.sailcroatia.net), Nautilus Yachting (www.nautilus-yachting.com), or Seafarer (www.seafarercruises.com). Prices vary. For a more active twist on a yachting holiday, Huck Finn Adventure Travel ($900–$1,200; 011-385-16-183-333, www.huck-finn.hr) offers eight-day adventure-sailing trips, which incorporate hiking, biking, snorkeling, sea kayaking, and even whitewater rafting at island stops along the way \\ Paraglide on Vis: Vis is the perfect launching point for paragliding, and the favorable climate means 250-plus flying days annually. Beginners are welcome, and a local agency offers tandem jumps with professional instructors. ($76 per day; 011-385-21-717-239, www.alternatura.hr) \\ Cave and Climb: Climbers wishing to test their mettle on the limestone walls of Paklenica National Park should get info from the Croatian Mountaineering Association (hps.inet.hr/tr_eng/). Zara Adventure Agency (011-385-23-342-368, www.zara-adventure.hr), in Zadar, offers caving and climbing trips to some of the thousands of caves around Paklenica National Park and the Velebit range. \\ Hike the Velebit Mountain Trail: Though no agencies currently organize trips along this hundred-mile trail, it's worth seeking out. It follows the ridgeline of Velebit, the range that separates the northern coast from the hinterland, passing through Northern Velebit and Paklenica national parks. The huts are rustic, but the views more than make up for any discomfort. For maps and info, check with Northern Velebit National Park (www.np-sjeverni-velebit.hr/novi_web/Velebit_eng). \\ Raft the Kupa, Dobra, and Cetiina Rivers: It's not Class V, but the rivers of Croatia will provide plenty of fun for whitewater nuts. Huck Finn Adventure Travel runs trips to all these rivers. \\ Pretend You're in Tuscany: The Istrian Peninsula, at the north of Croatia's coastal region, is a mini- Tuscany without the crowds: farmhouse-style accommodations to go along with the fine wines, fresh olive oil, and savory cuisine. The regional tourism association (www.istra.com) keeps a pretty complete list of lodging offerings, and some companies, like Saddle Skedaddle (www.skedaddle.co.uk), offer eight-day mountain-bike tours through Istria.

Resources \\ The Croatian National Tourism Board (800-829-4416, www.croatia.hr) has a branch office in New York and a helpful Web site. Other useful sites to check out are www.findcroatia.com and www.adriatica.net.

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