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Outside Magazine, February 2008
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Climbing El Cap
Aces High (cont.)

El Capitan
Anker jugs up as Hahn and Ninov hang out on their portaledges. (Jimmy Chin)

Launch, 7:30 a.m.... I wasn't really all that scared, yet. Rad motored up the first pitch, and Jimmy said, "OK, Dave, why don't you jug on up next," as he turned to help Ivo hitch the huge amounts of gear to be hauled up the cliff. Jimmy was telling me to climb the rope using mechanical ascenders—a reasonable suggestion, and certainly easier than climbing the rock itself. But I was hoping for something more along the lines of "Now, Dave, there are many ways to climb a rope, and this is a way that I think might work well for you in this particular application." I promptly got caught in a tree a few feet off the ground. Jimmy untangled me, clipped a few of my carabiners and slings into different places, and pointed me upward again.




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