Subscribe to Outside Magazine
advertisement

Online Favorites

Special Issues

Photo Galleries

save this page print this page email this page
  • share this page

Outside Magazine, July 2008
Page:
1 2 3 4 

Where the Walking Shark Lives (cont.)

By Adam Skolnick

ACCESS + RESOURCES
Raja Ampat and beyond

GETTING THERE: Singapore Airlines flies to Singapore from LAX and JFK (round-trip, $1,150; singaporeair.com); from there you can fly via domestic carriers to Manado, on the island of Sulawesi, or to Bali's Denpasar International Airport and connections to all outer-island destinations. Cathay Pacific flies from LAX and JFK to Denpasar via Hong Kong (round-trip, $1,250; cathaypacific.com).
WHEN TO GO: The dry season, from May to October, is the best time to visit (and dive).
GETTING AROUND: Garuda Indonesia, by far the country's best domestic carrier, flies daily between Denpasar and Manado (from $100 one-way; garuda-indonesia.com). Merpati Nusantara Airlines (merpati.co.id) and Lion Air (lionair.co.id) also fly many routes to remote islands.

Raja Ampat
WHAT TO DO: Seacology runs dive trips to numerous international destinations but does not plan to return to Raja Ampat before 2010 (seacology.org). However, you can book the same luxury live-aboard that Sea-cology chartered to Raja Ampat, the Seven Seas (from $340 per night; thesevenseas.net).
GETTING THERE: From Manado, fly Merpati to Sorong ($120).
WHERE TO STAY: In one of the boat's eight staterooms, all with en suite bathrooms and A/C.

Baliem Valley, New Guinea
WHAT TO DO: Here you'll see Dani men in headdresses of boars' teeth and vibrant bird of paradise feathers. Hike to the village of Kilise and stay in a grass hut overlooking a canyon.
GETTING THERE: Hop a daily flight on Garuda from Denpasar to Jayapura ($253), then one of ten daily Trigana Air flights to Wamena ($110; trigana-air.com).
WHERE TO STAY: In Wamena, bunk at the Baliem Valley Resort (from $110; baliem-valley-resort.de), a stylish bungalow property. In Kilise, sleep at the village guesthouse ($6).

Togian Islands, Sulawesi
WHAT TO DO: These limestone islands are home to spectacular coral reefs and plenty of wildlife, including reef, hammerhead, and the occasional whale shark, plus dolphins and dugongs. There's even a sunken B-24 bomber.
GETTING THERE: It takes about two days no matter your route. From Manado, fly Merpati to Gorontalo ($70), where you'll board a 15-hour ferry to Wakai, the main harbor on the Togian Islands.
WHERE TO STAY: Kadidiri Paradise Resort, on Kadidiri Island (bungalows, $32, all-inclusive; 011-62-464-210-58).

Balikpapan Bay, Kalimantan
WHAT TO DO: Dive recently discovered WWII wrecks— Japanese military cargo boats torpedoed by the U.S. Navy during the 1942 Battle of Balikpapan—at this industrial port. You'll descend into holds housing coral-encrusted bombs and torpedoes.
GETTING THERE: Garuda flies daily from Bali ($124).
WHERE TO STAY: Blue Marlin Dive's luxury teak sailing vessel, Ikan Biru ($1,550 per week, all-inclusive; bluemarlindive.com), drops anchor by the wrecks, enabling you to dive as much as possible.

Banda Islands
WHAT TO DO: Archipelago Resorts & Fleet's luxury live-aboard dive yacht, Archipelago Adventurer II, sails from Ambon on six- to 14-day trips around these ten tropical gems (from $325 per day, including dives and meals; archipelago-fleet.com).
GETTING THERE: Fly to Ambon from Denpasar on Lion Air ($274).
WHERE TO STAY: In the ship's swank staterooms, with plush mattresses, private bath, and A/C.

Roti
WHAT TO DO: Just 300 miles north of Australia, this remote, dry Indonesian isle is the sweetest surf spot you've never heard of—with perfect lefts and rights on empty beaches.
GETTING THERE: Merpati flies daily from Denpasar to Kupang ($62). You will have to stay overnight, then board a ferry to Roti (four hours; $12).
WHERE TO STAY: The Malole Surf House (from $100, including surf guide and excursions; rotesurfhouse.com), a boutique property managed by a South American couple. (He's an accomplished surf guide from Uruguay; she's a European-trained chef from Argentina.)

Gili Trawangan, Lombok
WHAT TO DO: For decades, backpackers have made the hop from Bali for a dip in the warm, turquoise waters of the tiny Gili Islands, off the coast of Lombok. Gili Trawangan (pop. 1,000), the farthest out, has the best dining and lodging options. Paddle the Gilis with Karma Kayak (half day, $32; full day, $48; karmakayak.com).
GETTING THERE: Take the daily two-and-a-half-hour fast boat, the Mahi Mahi, from Serangan Harbor, on Bali, direct to Gili T ($70; gili-paradise.com).
WHERE TO STAY: Kelapa Luxury Villas offers plush one-, two-, and three-bedroom homes with private pools (from $185; kelapavillas.com).

Gunung Rinjani, Lombok
WHAT TO DO: At 12,224 feet, Indonesia's second-highest volcano is a pilgrimage site both for the Hindus of Bali and for Lombok's Muslim Sasak people. From the summit you'll look down on a 3.7-mile-wide caldera with a crescent-shaped cobalt lake, hot springs, and Bali in the distance.
GETTING THERE: From Bali, fly to Mataram on Merpati ($51).
WHERE TO STAY: In your tent. The most established outfitter on the mountain, Rinjani Lombok, offers a four-day trek ($270; rinjanilombok.com).

Canggu, Bali
WHAT TO DO: Canggu is home to the island's least trampled beaches and most accessible surf breaks. Challenge yourself at Echo Beach, where you'll paddle out with local and international pros. Beware: The water gets big, riptides tug, boards snap, and a few lives are lost each year.
GETTING THERE: Canggu is an easy 40-minute, $15 cab ride from the Denpasar airport.
WHERE TO STAY: Book a luxe beach pad through Bali Ultimate Villas (four- to six-bedroom villas, $400–$2,350; www.baliultimatevillas.com).

Ubud, Bali
WHAT TO DO: Bali's cultural hub is home to painters, craftsmen, musicians, and dancers and is a base for year-round yoga retreats. Balispirit (balispirit.com) is the island's online clearinghouse of all mind/body classes and events.
GETTING THERE: The $20 cab ride from Denpasar takes about 50 minutes.
WHERE TO STAY: Ubud Hanging Gardens (doubles from $270; ubudhanginggardens.com), 15 minutes north of town in tiny Buahan, is hard to beat. Guests stay in two-story villas with heated infinity pools overlooking the jade Ayung River.




Page:
1 2 3 4 



L.A.-based ADAM SKOLNICK has written for Wired and Travel + Leisure.