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Outside Magazine, October 2008

Great Escapes 2008
Dalton Highway, AK
Wild Roads

By Steven Rinella

State Route 375, NV | Natchez Trace Parkway, TN/MS | Route 66, AZ | Route 112, NH | Dalton Highway, AK

IN ALASKAN VERNACULAR, the Dalton Highway, a 414-mile stretch of hard-packed gravel paralleling the Trans-Alaska Pipeline north of Fairbanks all the way to the Arctic Ocean, is known as the Haul Road. It's tempting to imagine that name as shorthand for the Hauling-Ass Road—the occasional sign posting a 50-mph speed limit gets as much respect as a no guns sign in Afghanistan's Hindu Kush—but it's really a Hauling-Equipment Road, for supplies on their way to Prudhoe Bay's oil fields. For intrepid motorists, the Dalton offers a route into the wildest, most beautiful landscape you'll ever see from behind a wheel. The road is notoriously tough on cars, so rent an SUV or light pickup in Fairbanks (make sure the rental contract covers you on the Dalton; most don't). Day one takes you across the vast Yukon River and then through endless sub-Arctic straightaways, where one glimpse of the unpeopled expanse equals a thousand weekends away anywhere else. Prep for day two by filling the tank at Coldfoot Camp, the self-proclaimed northernmost truck stop in the world (you won't hit another station for 244 miles). From there it's up and over the Brooks Range via a stunning, serpentine pass, and then down into rolling arctic tundra. Here the only pedestrians are musk ox, grizzlies, and caribou. Don't wait a lifetime to make the drive; if the oil fields of the Alaskan Arctic peter out (when this will happen is anyone's guess), the road might be destroyed.




State Route 375, NV | Natchez Trace Parkway, TN/MS | Route 66, AZ | Route 112, NH | Dalton Highway, AK



Correspondent STEVEN RINELLA is the author of The Scavenger's Guide to Haute Cuisine (Miramax). He's currently working on a book about the American bison.

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