To reach the end of the country, you have to walk a plank—a three-mile wooden footbridge that starts on the Makah reservation, 2.5 hours northwest of Seattle on Highway 112. Buy wine before entering the reservation, which is dry, and buy a seafood-harvesting tag once you're there (try Washburn's General Store, in Neah Bay). Park at the trailhead just before the fish hatchery on Route 112, walk down the footbridge, switch back a few times through the mud, and there it is: the most northerly tip of Olympic National Park, a two-mile-long beach broken up by tall black sea stacks (wilderness permits, nps.gov/olym). Your neighbors are smart surfers who've come for Makah Bay's six-foot swells.