Adventure Advisor:

Much of what you hoped to find in Indonesia you can probably find in Malaysia-- pristine beaches, dense tropical forests, active tribal communities. The bonus, of course, is political stability.

Trains run from Bangkok to Kuala Lumpur, where reliable buses can take you just about anywhere on the peninsula. From there I'd head for the hill stations of the Cameron Highlands, where you can wander through the jungle past waterfalls and tea plantations to escape the heat of the lowlands.

If you've got time, you should also fly to East Malaysia on the north end of Borneo. Kuching, in the region of Sarawak, is the most accessible entry point and one of the most peaceful modern cities in all of Asia. From there you can canoe down the Rejang River to tribal longhouses where Iban communities still thrive.

If you're still set on visiting Bali, check with the U.S. State Department first. Their web site (http://travel.state.gov/travel_warnings.html) is updated regularly with travel advisories.

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