Adventure Advisor:

Here's the problem with fly-fishing in a well-known place like Puerto Montt: The best access goes to the tourists with the fattest wads of cash. If you can afford to stay in a luxury lodge and fish on someone's private reserve, great. But if you're on your own, you'll have to buy a one-year license and your access will be restricted. This is not the spot for budget travelers. You'll probably be happier farther south, in a place like Futaleafú Getting there cheaply requires an uncomfortable stint on a bus or a boat. But the nearby rivers and lakes are packed with brown and rainbow trout, and the town itself is pleasantly tourist-lite, which means you can find a decent place to stay for under $10 and local guides who won't rip you off. The Futaleafú Adventure Center (www.kayakchile.com, 888-488-9082) is the area's only deluxe outfitter. They offer guided fly-fishing trips that are affordable compared to those in and around Puerto Montt--if you can bear to part with a couple hundred dollars, their one-day tours are truly worth the splurge.

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