Adventure Advisor:

I wish I could tell you that primitive camping in the Keys was as easy to find as sunburned octogenarians in Miami. But I can't. The sad truth is that most recreation there is geared toward those dreaded Komfort Kampers. If there is any solitude to be found, however, you'll find it on the islands that can only be reached by boat or plane (read: no RVs). The best of these make up Dry Tortugas National Park (http://www.dry.tortugas.national-park.com).

This cluster of seven reefs pops out of the water 68 miles west of Key West. Most day-trippers hop off the ferry for a quick tour of the 16th-century Spanish fort, then scramble back to the cozy beds and filtered taps of their mainland resorts. Just a lucky few get to spend the night on Garden Key, Dry Tortugas' only overnight island. There are no hotels or stores, just one campground with twelve sites--first come, first served, $3 per person per night. You bring the camping gear, food and fresh water, and they'll provide the flush toilets (sorry, this is as primitive as it gets).

Since January is the region's high season, you'll want to take the first ferry of the day to secure your site. Call 305-294-7009 for the schedule. Also, keep in mind that 99% of the 64,657-acre park is underwater. That's not a lot of dry land to explore...be sure to pack your snorkel.

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