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Blue Byways (Cont.)

Day 3>>Seebert-Hot Springs, Virginia
It's up and down and up and down along U.S. 219 and other back roads to reach Seneca Rocks National Recreation Area—a spiky-topped mohawk of stone that's a rock-climbing delight. We hike two steep miles up to the base of the rocks to watch climbers dangle from the cliffs. Later, the boys watch them through binoculars while munching on pizza at Harper's Front Porch Restaurant.

After a quick walking tour of the eerie and luminous Seneca Caverns (West Virginia's largest and, at 165 feet, deepest caves), we head south into Virginia and descend into a valley that holds the town of Hot Springs and the massive 200-plus-year-old Homestead resort, where we're headed for a respite. That night, we chase each other through a hedge maze in the Spa Garden, where steam rises spookily from a pool of spring water.

Day 4>>Hot Springs-Roanoke
We linger at The Homestead, a genteel golf/tennis/spa club that is expanding into an outdoor sports center. First, we drop the boys off at KidsClub, a counselor-led activities program. We'll hear later all about their hike up to the horse stables and their failed efforts to snag trout in the kids' fishing pond. Meanwhile, Mary goes on a guided horseback ride up the mountain trails on the resort grounds while I tour the same well-groomed trails by mountain bike.

We regroup and take a dip in the spring-fed indoor pool. It's not till evening that we drive south to Roanoke, whose quirky skyline makes it a treat to enter at night. A huge neon coffeepot mounted above a downtown building and an 88-foot star posted atop Mill Mountain beckon visitors. We check into the restored Tudor-style Hotel Roanoke and walk the lively downtown square.

Day 5>>Roanoke-Lake Toxaway, North Carolina
We start at dawn, picking up orange juice, coffee, and bagels at Mill Mountain Coffee and Tea for a quick breakfast beneath the star. From there, we hop on the Blue Ridge Parkway and cruise nonstop back to Asheville. By late afternoon we're paddling a rented canoe down a short, calm stretch of the French Broad River, which bisects the city and passes behind the massive Biltmore Estate. We then head west into Pisgah National Forest, a craggier cousin of Cherokee National Forest, and reach Earthshine, a cedar-log lodge on a 70-acre farm. Lodging includes morning kid programs such as learning about pioneers by spinning wool and pressing cider, or going gem mining on Crystal Creek.

That night, I ask the boys what they thought of our road trip. We all agree the minivan was a bit tippy on those switchbacks. But then I get an endorsement that would make my father proud. The little one, Leo, says, "Cool, Daddy."

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