We rented kayaks from Mara del Mar Berbín Varón, owner of Turismo Nautico Triana (011-34-954-28-13-82; tntmar@teleline.es) in Seville. Del Mar and Maximo Vela Adame, president of the Andalusian Canoe Federation (011-34-954-28-25-26), shuttled us to the headwaters, and their network of friends stowed our kayaks and gear in the big cities, where we stayed in hotels, and gave us rides past the parts of the river we elected to skip.
Officially, we needed a permit from the Confederacíon Hidrografica del Guadalquivir (011-34-954-93-95-17) to make this journey. The office never responded to our numerous inquiries, so we decided that if we were stopped by a government official we'd pretend we couldn't speak Spanish. We were never stopped.
In the summer in southern Spain, the sun burns hot from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., so we wore lots of sunscreen, broad-brimmed hats, and sometimes long pants and long-sleeve shirts for additional protection. We brought (but never unpacked) rain ponchos. In addition to our clothes, we carried two tents, five sleeping bags and pads, two water jugs, and one small cooler, which we filled semidaily with crackers, cheese, sausage, canned tuna, olives, powdered milk, jelly, and bread.