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Outside Magazine, February 2007

Review: Upgrade
The Gripper
No glove sponsorship? No problem, says ice-climbing guide MARK MILLER, who reveals how he keeps his hands warm for less.

By Sam Moulton


OUTSIDE: What do you look for in a glove?
MILLER: When you're using leashless tools, dexterity is king. You can get by with a thinner glove: Without restriction on your wrist, circulation is better. And because you can let go at any time, it's easier to shake your hands out.

What's your favorite?
Unless it's really cold, I pair a fairly cheap fleece liner—something you pick up for $15—with an inexpensive water-resistant but high-dexterity shell. When I wear out the shell, I just throw it away and keep using the liner. Or I'll use a pair of waterproof, washable leather gloves from the hardware store. They're mechanic's gloves, and the dexterity is really good. I'll barely get a full season out of them, but they cost just 15 bucks. I also carry another set that I use solely for belaying, which really trashes your gloves.

What do you use?
For semicold weather—zero to 20 degrees—I'll use a pair of PrimaLoft-insulated leather gloves. Right now I've got the Marmot Work gloves ($80; marmot.com). They're more expensive, but they're made with higher-quality leather, and the last a lot longer than the hardware-store variety. I had to start duct-taping the fingers after one season, but now they're on their third. I'll see if they can finish the year, but I doubt it.

Miller, 42, works for San Juan Mountain Guides and sets the course for the Ouray Ice Festival, the country's premier ice-climbing showcase and competition.