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June 16, 2008
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 Do I really need double boots for Denali?
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Brooks Ranger Overboots (courtesy, Outdoor Research)
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I have a pair of Montrail ICE 9 insulated boots that I used on Aconcagua with
insulated gaiters. I'd like to take them to Denali with a full overboot. The
guide outfit, however, recommends double boots only. Should I go ahead with my
set-up?
Dean
Bittern Lake, Alberta
Do you have a question of your own?
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 Dean, Id like to direct your attention to a photo that appeared in May in the
Anchorage Daily News. It depicts one Nadia Cuadrado, a 29-year-old woman from Spain who
took a crack at Denali in mid-May. She summited, but in the process froze her
feet. In the photo, you can see her purple toesmost of which she likely
will lose.
So, sure, wear your Montrail ICE 9 boots. And then ask yourself, do you value
your toes? Because the ICE 9s ($350 when new, but now discontinued) are fine
boots, but theyre really not quite suited for expedition-type climbing such as
on Denali. Yes, theyre fine on a peak such as Aconcagua, the 22,841-foot
mountain in Argentina. And yes, it does get cold on Aconcagua. But Denali is sort
of in a league by itself, given its proximity to the Arctic Circle. Especially in
May, it gets cold, cold, cold there (-25F and colder on a regular basis). I was
there in June several years back and we saw -20F several times at 17,000 feet.
So Im with your guidego with the double boots, and full overboots. Scarpas tried-and-true Inverno
($279) is a good choice, as is the newer and lighter Omega ($375). Also take a
look at the Koflach Arctis
Expe ($400). Mountain
Hardwears Absolute Zero overboot ($100) is a good choice, but Id probably
go with the Brooks Ranger from Outdoor Research ($135), as I think they are a little warmer.
So thats my take. Hope you have a good trip!
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