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CHOICE HIKES: ROCKIES
Colorado
Backpack Trail Section of the Colorado Trail (moderate)
San Juan National Forest

The Hike: There'll never be consensus on the best hike in Colorado, but for glorious Rockies vistas and meadows blooming knee-high with wildflowers, nothing beats this 20-mile stretch of the 469-mile Colorado Trail. Starting at 10,880-foot Molas Pass, you hike through an 1879 burn area with views of the Grenadiers and La Plata
Mountains. Camp in the West Lime Creek drainage, seven miles in. At mile ten, a small alpine lake is hidden by willows on a rise, and three miles farther, high falls plunge into a gorge at Cascade Creek. Proceed over a saddle into the Hermosa Creek Drainage at mile 18, where it leads to Bolam Road.
Local Wisdom: Mid-July through August is prime time for wildflowers, but be prepared for notoriously sudden and severe storms.
Getting There: From Silverton, drive south 5.5 miles on U.S. 550 to a road on the left marked Molas Trail. Go two-tenths of a mile on this dirt road to the Colorado Trail. Driving time from Denver: eight hours. For information, call the San Juan National Forest at 970-247-4874.
Resources: USGS topos: Snowdon Peak, Silverton, Ophir, Engineer Mountain, Hermosa Peak. The national forest office sells a half set of the Colorado Trail map, which covers this hike. Guidebook: The Official Guide to the Colorado Trail ($20, from Colorado Trail Foundation, 303-526-0809).
Civilization: The Blue Lake Ranch, 18 miles from trail's end and 15 miles west of Durango, has beautiful gardens on 100 acres. Doubles, $95-$250. Call 970-385-4537.
Idaho
Toxaway Lake Loop (moderate)
Sawtooth National Recreation Area
The Hike: In the heart of the Sawtooth Mountains, this 18-mile loop begins and ends at Pettit Lake. The trail never drops below 7,000 feet, and its perfectly spaced chain of lakes means that you can find a campsite with a lake view every night of a three-day trip. Alice Lake, six miles in, is a good first stopover or turnaround spot
for a day hike. The midway payoff is milelong Toxaway Lake, surrounded by jutting granite peaks. Go in July or August, when most of the snow has melted and the wildflowers are out in force.
Local Wisdom: Pack your fly rod and a fishing license (available from local outfitters). Each of the half-dozen lakes along the route is known for producing more than its share of hefty brook trout.
Getting There: From Ketchum, drive 43 miles north on Idaho 75, turn west on Pettit Lake Road, and follow signs to the trailhead in Tin Cup Camp (about three and a half hours from Boise). No permits are currently required. For trail information, call the Sawtooth National Recreation Area Visitor Center at 208-727-5013.
Resources: USGS topo map: Snowyside Peak. Sawtooth National Recreation Area ($14.95, from Wilderness Press, 800-443-7227) is a comprehensive if slightly dated guide.
Civilization: The venerable Sun Valley Resort in Ketchum has a main lodge and two hotels. Doubles, $74-$174. Call 800-786-8259.
Montana
The Great Northern Traverse (strenuous)
Glacier National Park
The Hike: The Great Northern Traverse begins on the far west side of Glacier National Park and skirts the Canada border, crossing truly magnificent Continental Divide terrain before exiting the park at its northeastern boundary. At 58 miles, this is a long (seven- to ten-day) haul in grizzly country, requiring snowfield-crossing skills
and strong legs. The trek begins along Kintla Lake and climbs to Boulder Pass on its way to the head of Waterton Lake, 32 miles in. Part two takes you another 26 miles through Waterton Valley, up Stoney Indian Pass, and through the wild and beautiful Belly River Valley to the Chief Mountain customs station.
Local Wisdom: The area between Boulder Pass and Brown Pass is under snow until August. Late August to early September is prime time here--for bears and humans. Trails may be closed because of higher-than-normal levels of bear activity.
Getting There: From Kalispell, drive north 33 miles on U.S. 2 to the park's west entrace at West Glacier, and then north to the trailhead in Kintla Lake Campground. Leave a second car at Chief Mountain customs station. Permits are available one day in advance at any park ranger station. Call Glacier National Park at
406-888-5441.
Resources: USGS topo: Glacier National Park. Guidebook: The Trail Guide to Glacier & Waterton National Parks ($12.95, from Falcon Press, 800-582-2665).
Civilization: The Many Glacier Hotel at Swiftcurrent Lake, with 211 rooms, is about 40 minutes from the finish line. Doubles, $91-$111. Call 602-207-6000.
Nevada
Ruby Crest Trail (moderate to strenuous)
Humboldt National Forest
The Hike: The wettest and most forested of Nevada's mountains, the Rubies cover a swath that's ten miles wide by 100 miles long. This 14-mile out-and-back hike from Lamoille Canyon to North Furlong Lake takes you right through the heart of the range's lakes, glacial valleys, and cirques. Starting in a meadow full of blue lupine, the
trail quickly climbs through a series of staircased valleys. Lower Dollar and Lamoille Lakes, about two miles in, have excellent campsites, or continue on over 10,400-foot Liberty Pass; it's another 5.5 miles to the turnaround point at North Furlong Lake, where there are primitive campsites.
Local Wisdom: The Rubies are checkerboarded with private property. Be careful to avoid trespassing if you go off the trail for any significant distance.
Getting There: From Elko, take Nevada 227 about 32 miles south to County Road 660 (Lamoille Canyon Road) and drive 12 miles to the trailhead (about five and a half hours from Reno). For information, contact the Forest Service office in Elko at 800-715-9379.
Resources: USGS topos: Ruby Dome, Lamoille. Also recommended is the Humboldt National Forest Wilderness Topo Map ($5, from the Forest Service office). Guidebook: Hiking the Great Basin ($15, from Sierra Club Books, 800-935-1056).
Civilization: Reds Ranch, about 15 miles from the Lamoille Canyon trailhead, is a stone lodge with 12 rooms and a pool. Doubles, $200. Call 702-753-6281.
Utah
Escalante River: Harris Wash to Lake Powell (moderate)
Glen Canyon National Recreation Area
The Hike: Glen Canyon may be drowned under Lake Powell, but the Escalante is often compared to that lost realm. It's carved a dramatic path through red rock country, creating a hiker's thoroughfare into an area of slot canyons, arches, and hanging waterfalls. This fiveto seven-day, 66-mile hike starts at Harris Wash and heads ten
miles into the Escalante Gorge. The last five miles before you hit Lake Powell are the Narrows, full of house-size boulders. Once through, head 13 miles up Coyote Gulch to the Hurricane Wash trailhead on Hole-in-the-Rock Road.
Local Wisdom: The closer you get to Lake Powell, the more difficult it is to find a safe walking route. Particularly in the last mile before Coyote Gulch, keep eyes peeled for hidden quicksand.
Getting There: From Escalante, about five hours from Salt Lake City, go five miles east on Utah 12 and then take Hole-in-the-Rock Road south for 11 miles, until you see signs for the BLM road to Harris Wash. First pick up a free wilderness permit from the interagency office (801-826-5499) a mile west of Escalante on Utah 12.
Resources: The best map is Trails Illustrated's Canyons of the Escalante ($9). Guidebook: Hiking the Escalante ($7.50, from Wasatch Publishers). Both are available at the interagency office.
Civilization: Boulder Mountain Ranch, about 20 miles northeast of Escalante off Utah 12, has five rooms in the main lodge and three separate log cabins. Doubles, $55-$160. Call 801-335-7480.
Wyoming
Cirque of the Towers (moderate)
Bridger-Teton National Forest
The Hike: Locals complain about the crowds, but even the most jaded consider this ring of 12,000-foot peaks around a high mountain lake Wyoming's most dramatic spot. The 17-mile round-trip starts at Big Sandy Campground and follows Big Sandy Trail for six miles through lodgepole pine forest to Big Sandy Lake. Continue two miles over
12,000-foot Jackass Pass, which crosses the Continental Divide. Avoid camping at Big Sandy and Lonesome Lakes in the center of the cirque; instead, head down the drainage and camp along the North Fork of the Popo Agie River.
Local Wisdom: Since much of the trail is above treeline, store your food in bear-proof tubes provided free with a deposit at the national forest office in Pinedale. No tube, no food.
Getting There: From Jackson, take U.S. 191 southeast 111 miles to Boulder; then head east on Wyoming 353 for 16.5 miles, take a left at the T-intersection, and continue eight miles. Just after you cross Big Sandy River, take a left to the campground. Call the Pinedale Ranger District at 307-367-4326.
Resources: USGS topo maps: Big Sandy Opening, Lizard Head Peak, Temple Peak, and Mount Bonneville. The national forest office in Pinedale sells a topo of the Pinedale Ranger District for $3. Guidebook: Climing and Hiking in the Wind Ricer Mountains ($25, from Chockstone Press, 303-674-6888).
Civilization: Big Sandy Lodge, a 1940s relic about a mile from the trailhead, has ten cabins and a main lodge. Doubles, $45-$65. Call 307-332-6782.
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