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Outside magazine, April 2000	Page: 1 \| 2 \| 3 \| 4 \| 5 \| 6 \| 7

An obelisk marks the probable scene of the crime—not grand theft auto, but, allegedly, grand theft sheep. It's about two-thirds of the way up Mackenzie Pass, which is itself some 20 miles down a gravel road from Route 8, the only paved road through Mackenzie Country. The modest memorial was once covered with lichen, but a distant clansman of the accused went and scraped clean the three sides of the marker, which are carved respectively in English, Maori, and Gaelic. The English side reads:

IN THIS SPOT JAMES MACKENZIE THE FREEBOOTER WAS CAPTURED BY JOHN SIDEBOTTOM AND THE MAORIS TAIKO AND SEVENTEEN AND ESCAPED FROM THEM THE SAME NIGHT 4TH MARCH 1855.

YOU CAN RUN AND YOU CAN HIDE
How to play fugitive in New Zealand

Whether you want to investigate the haunts of a legendary sheeplifter or simply camp out in some of the most pristine backcountry on earth, here's a few things you'll want to know.

When to Go: New Zealand's seasons are opposite to North America's. The best weather is from January through March, though most trails can be hiked anytime from November to April.

Getting Primed: New Zealand is well promoted on the Web. Here are three sites worth checking out: www.purenz.com (the official site of the New Zealand Tourist Board), http://www.mtcook.org.nz (a site devoted to Mount Cook and the Mackenzie District), and http://www.doc.govt.nz (the best site for info on backcountry travel). For historical background, hunt down the out-of-print book Mackenzie of the Mackenzie Country by James Herries Beattie (Cadsonbury Publications, 1946).

Getting There: Christchurch is the jumping-off point for The Mackenzie and all spots south. The connecting flights from Auckland stop here. Auckland is served by Air New Zealand, Qantas, and United. Round-trip high season fares from Los Angeles range from $1,540 to $3,380.

Staying There: Tiny, windswept Twizel offers accommodations rude and refined. For my base camp, I chose a delightfully retro A-frame at Mountain Chalets ($45 per person per night; 011-03-435-0785). Backpackers with their own linen can get by for as a little as $15. If you can afford even one night at the more upscale Hermitage ($105–$285; 435-1809), the views of Mount Cook are worth it. Down in Queenstown, my B&B of choice is the Queenstown House ($165–$185; 442-9043).

Eating Out: Fairlie, the wee capital of the Mackenzie District, boasts the Old Liberty Cafe, famous, not surprisingly, for its lamb and venison. Lamb for two will set you back $40. Like Bill Clinton, I dined at Queenstown's lovely Boardwalk Seafood Restaurant & Bar (dinner for two, $75; 442-5630).

Outfitters: For weather reports and climbing guides in the Mount Cook area, try the Glenntanner Park Centre (435-1855). In the Mount Cook village, Alpine Guides (435-1834) rent virtually all climbing equipment. Mount Cook Ski Planes (435-1026) run airlifts to the top of Mount Cook. Adult fare is $225. —P.S.