EVER SINCE ONTARIO made the prudent decision to permanently ban the provincewide spring bear hunt in 1999, travel marketing has had to undergo a metamorphosis to help tour operators recoup lost hunting dollars. "Last year most brochures featured bloody bear carcasses," says Matthew Binks, director of Adventure Travel
Ontario. "This year they're promoting canoeing, hiking, and catch-and-release fishing." As 180-degree about-faces go, that's pretty big—and needless to say, the bears are very happy. Now, as part of Ontario's political reeducation effort, eco-friendly vacation opportunities include Grey Owl Camps (705-239-2888; www.greyowlcamps.com), roughly 400 miles north of Buffalo, with extensive canoeing and hiking trails and boat-accessed cabins that rent for $500 to $600 per person per week, including all meals and use of canoes; guests can catch-and-consume walleye and whitefish sans guilt. Fox Lake Lodge
(705-965-2701; www.foxlakelodge.com), northwest of Sudbury, also offers full-day guided paddling excursions for $35 and lodging packages starting at $55 per person per night. Watch out for Smokey, though. For him, it's payback time.
No Más Picchu (...without a reservation)
ANYBODY OUT THERE intending to hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, the sacred 500-year-old Incan city perched at 8,910 feet in the Andes? Listen up. On August 9, the Peruvian government will begin limiting foot traffic to 500
hikers per day on the busiest section of the trail—the 20 miles leading up to the ruins. Over 66,000 people use the trail annually, with more than 1,000 stomping on vegetation and generally wreaking havoc on any given summer day. To help finance maintenance, Machu Picchu pilgrims will be charged a trail-use fee of $50 per person (up from $17) and must
also hook up with one of 50-plus government-certified tour companies. Contact the South American Explorers Club (607-277-0488; www.samexplo.org) for policy updates and information on outfitters.
Urban Renewal
"MOST PEOPLE THINK a place must be uninhabited for someone to discover it, but cities are frontiers, too," insists L. B. Deyo, editor of Jinx magazine and cofounder of the Jinx Athenaeum Society, a New York–based urban exploration club leading a global conspiracy to take advantage of subway tunnels, abandoned buildings,
and bridges as adventure playgrounds. The Web is uniting these sewer rats as never before (check out the newly launched www.urbanexploration.com), with devotees comparing notes on everything from sewage tunnels to vacant insane asylums and how to spelunk a metropolis without ending up in the hoosegow. Herewith, a crash course in the three most prominent
kinds of "UE."
ANYBODY OUT THERE intending to hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, the sacred 500-year-old Incan city perched at 8,910 feet in the Andes? Listen up. On August 9, the Peruvian government will begin limiting foot traffic to 500
hikers per day on the busiest section of the trail—the 20 miles leading up to the ruins. Over 66,000 people use the trail annually, with more than 1,000 stomping on vegetation and generally wreaking havoc on any given summer day. To help finance maintenance, Machu Picchu pilgrims will be charged a trail-use fee of $50 per person (up from $17) and must
also hook up with one of 50-plus government-certified tour companies. Contact the South American Explorers Club (607-277-0488; 
