| PRODUCT |
WHAT IS IT? |
HOW IT WORKS |
WHERE IT GRIPS |
WHERE IT SLIPS |
Powdered Chalk
Petzl Magnesium ($3.50 for four ounces; 877-807-3805; www.petzl.com) or Bison Designs Bulk Chalk ($3 for four ounces; 800-536-2476; www.bisondesigns.com) |
Magnesium carbonate—a white, crystalline salt—ground fine as baby powder |
Soaks up sweat, increasing friction between hands and holds |
Cheap |
Tends to spill from your chalk bag if you don't use a mesh chalk ball like the Xeric Perpetual Ball ($5.50; distributed by Climb High; 802-985-5056; www.climbhigh.com), which dispenses chalk dust evenly when
squeezed |
|
Block Chalk
Endo Block Chalk ($1 for a two-ounce chunk; 310-327-2521; www.frankendo.com) or U.S. Glove Gym Chalk ($1 for a two-ounce block; 800-999-5408; www.usglove.com) |
A brick of magnesium carbonate |
Applied by crumbling small chunks in the palm of the hand |
Lasts longer than powder—you pulverize it with your hand, forcing the chalk deep into the creases of the skin. Buy in bulk for a reasonable price. |
All that crumbling can be messy—expect to lose a lot and get it all over the place. |
|
| Pro Mag XT Chalk, distributed by Misty Mountain ($5.50 for an eight-ounce bag; 828-963-6688; www.mistymountain.com) |
A powdered chalk that has been supplemented with magnesium-based drying agents. Comes in either a fine or coarse powder. |
The drying agents absorb any moisture in the chalk and help dry out the skin. |
Keeps hands slightly drier than generic chalk |
More expensive than plain block chalk. But hey, chalk is cheap. |
|
| Hybrid Chalk by Climbing Gear ($4.75 for a four-ounce bag and a chalk ball; 703-289-1200; www.contactclimbinggear.com) |
A ball of finely powdered chalk combined with a fume silica drying agent and a powdered antiperspirant |
The drying agent absorbs moisture on the surface of your skin while the antiperspirant contracts your pores. |
The most effective antisweat powder for climbing—a little goes a very long way |
No refills after you tie the knot: When you run out, you'll have to throw away the old chalk ball and buy a fresh one. So don't tie the knot. |
|
| Magic Chalk by Vertical Technology ($9 for a nine-ounce bottle; 800-647-0123; www.magicchalk.com) |
A pharmaceutical-grade chalk suspended in alcohol that dries to a fine white coating |
The alcohol enables the fine chalk to thoroughly penetrate wrinkles and pores, and it acts as a solvent, removing sweat and oils. |
Fights sweat better than conventional chalk, and stays on the hand longer. Produces less dust than powdered chalk for healthier lungs. |
A bit of a hassle. Before climbing, the excess chalk must be dusted off (otherwise it feels silky and slick); you can't reapply it while climbing; and if you use it too often, the alcohol will crack your skin. |
|
| Power Dry by Sports/Science Inc. ($5 for a two-ounce bottle; 800-322-0688; www.spiinc-tx.com) |
A white liquid with a laundry list of chemicals, including isopropyl alcohol and an antiperspirant, that have been mixed with a variety of solvents |
Antiperspirant for your hands, Power Dry is used with loose chalk or a chalk ball. Applied liberally, it'll last two routes, or numerous bouldering problems. |
Unlike other products enhanced with antiperspirant, it feels grippy, not tacky. |
Because it was only recently introduced (last January), the long-term effects on the skin, as well as its potential to leave residual buildup on climbing holds, are unknown. |
