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Outside's Annual Travel Guide, 1999/2000

THE BEACH FINDER
Ten top beaches worldwide

THE BEACH: Namotu, Fiji

PICTURE THIS: Five acres of land and 100+ acres of coral reef create the near-perfect breaks that make surfers and windsurfers hyperventilate. Perfectly translucent water and a white-sand beach amp the aesthetics on every possible water activity.

FIRST-PERSON NOTES: "Namotu means 'magic island,' and it really is that. It's the perfect beach-rimmed small island."

BEYOND THE BEACH TOWEL: If surfing isn't your thing, you can go snorkeling, diving, and fishing for yellowfin, wahoo, and mahimahi. Then go windsurfing or try the resort's paragliding version of the pub crawl, which takes you on an island-to-island gorge-orgy.

PRIVACY QUOTIENT*: 2

SHORE BET: Enjoy a view of the surf and Fiji's legendary sunsets at the Love Shack, one of six bures at honeymoon-happy Namotu Island Resort. Rates are $133–$157 per person per night for two to six people, including meals and boats; call 888-447-3454.

FINDING YOUR WAY: Fly to Nadi, catch the Namotu bus to Nabila, then take a 20-minute boat ride. Or jump on a helicopter that takes you from the Nadi airport directly to Namotu.

BEST TIME TO GO: For surfing, February to September; diving, May through November; sailing, June through October; fishing is great anytime


THE BEACH: Kawakiu, Molokai, Hawaii

PICTURE THIS: On the island's northwest corner, a broad sandy crescent edges turquoise inlet waters. Kiawe trees bleached white by the sun contrast with the deep blue sky. To the west is a view of Oahu's Diamond Head. Other small white-sand beaches and coves lie just a ramble away up the rocky shoreline.

FIRST-PERSON NOTES: "This is one beach only the locals know about—it's one of the most deserted beaches you can find easily in the Islands."

BEYOND THE BEACH TOWEL: Kawakiu is one of the few swimmable beaches in Molokai's oft-unpredictable waters (but still use caution). There's great snorkeling, diving, and kayaking here, and you can fish for barracuda, threadfin, and red goatfish.

PRIVACY QUOTIENT*: 2

SHORE BET: You can camp under a shady grove right on the beach (no facilities), but comfort seekers opt for the Kaluakoi Resort (800-525-1470), about two miles away, with hotel rooms and villas (doubles, $105–$206). Eat breakfast or dinner at the resort's Ohia Lodge.

FINDING YOUR WAY: From Molokai Airport, take Hawaii 460 west to Kaluakoi Road onto the road to Paniolo Hale Resort, but continue straight toward the golf course. Park just before crossing the greens and hike 40 minutes to the beach (you may be able to drive directly to the beach, but the road is quite rocky).

BEST TIME TO GO: Spring through early fall (waves are high in late fall and winter)


THE BEACH: Saltwhistle Bay Mayreau, The Grenadines

PICTURE THIS: South of St. Vincent sits the 640-acre carless island of Mayreau. On the island's northern tip, Saltwhistle's U-shaped bay is lined by 1,000 feet of talcum sands. A long, narrow arm shelters the bay from rough Atlantic breakers; perfectly spaced palms and sea grapes fringe the beach.

FIRST-PERSON NOTES: "Not only do you have the most beautiful beach in the Grenadines, but also the best snorkeling in the Caribbean, at Tobago Cays, just a ten-minute cruise away."

BEYOND THE BEACH TOWEL: Roll out of bed and onto your windsurfer, then pack a picnic and head for a deserted beach or a small offshore island. Hike 20 minutes south to the island's only settlement, a hilltop village of some 200 people with a stunning panoramic view.

PRIVACY QUOTIENT*: 2-3

SHORE BET: Reposing in a coconut grove laced with hammocks, the Saltwhistle Bay Club is a simple retreat of heartwood-and-native-stone bungalows with rattan furnishings and tile floors. Doubles are $320–$480, including breakfast and dinner; try the catch of the day at the beachside restaurant that's popular with yachties; call 784-458-8444.

FINDING YOUR WAY: Fly to Barbados, then take the charter flight to Union Island, where the resort's motor launch will pick you up and speed you 30 minutes to the beach.

BEST TIME TO GO: December–June (dry season)


THE BEACH: Punta Uva Beach, Costa Rica

PICTURE THIS: On the extreme southern Caribbean coast, in the depths of a wildlife refuge, a five-mile-long horseshoe-shaped white-sand beach surrounds aquamarine waters. Waves break on colorful coral that extends nearly two miles offshore. Coconut palms line the beach, which is backed by tropical mountains.

FIRST-PERSON NOTES: "The beach is in an incredibly tranquil setting surrounded by nature."

BEYOND THE BEACH TOWEL: In one of the most biodiverse places on earth you're likely to see howler monkeys, sloths, green parrots, colorful butterflies, lizards, and birds in addition to the marine life. Dive and snorkel in Technicolor coral gardens, then kayak with the dolphins.

PRIVACY QUOTIENT*: North of the point: 4
South of the point: 1–2

SHORE BET: Stay at one of several upscale, midsize hotels on the beach or in small family-operated cabins. Doubles are $15 (cabins) to $80 (hotel rooms); book through Adventures at 800-231-7422. The resorts' restaurants offer continental and Costa Rican cuisine; family-run places serve fresh seafood and locally grown fruits and vegetables.

FINDING YOUR WAY: From San José airport, take the bus to Manzanillo and ask the driver to stop at the beach. Or rent a car and go 100 miles to Limón Highway, then head south 45 miles.

BEST TIME TO GO: Late August–October; January, and March–May


THE BEACH: Aleipata Beach Upolu, Independent Samoa

PICTURE THIS: If you're looking for a fantasy tropical island with waterfalls and deserted beaches, Upolu is it. At its eastern tip lies gorgeous Aleipata Beach, where coral reefs cluster 50 kilometers offshore, creating calm waters. In the village you'll be greeted by the taupou, or "village virgin," performing a welcoming ceremony just for you.

FIRST-PERSON NOTES: "Aleipata is one of those places that Jimmy Buffett fans dream about. You can rent a beachfront fale for little more than you'd spend on an espresso in Hawaii."

BEYOND THE BEACH TOWEL: There's excellent snorkeling here and on the offshore islands of Nu'utele and Nu'ulua. From Aleipata, trek north to the wilder part of the island and Uafato village, where 14 square kilometers of rainforest and coastal waters have been declared a conservation area.

PRIVACY QUOTIENT*: 2, unless you encounter a tour group

SHORE BET: Beachfront fales (open-air thatched-roof bungalows) are the way to go here (bring a sleeping bag). They generally charge about $9 per person, plus $9–$11 for food. On Sunday, enjoy a to'ona'i, the traditional midday meal prepared in an umu pit oven.

FINDING YOUR WAY: Fly to Upolu's Faleolo Airport, then take a bus or taxi to Apia's Maketi Fou, then another (early-morning) bus to Aleipata.

BEST TIME TO GO: No bad seasons here, but December to April can be rainy. Avoid tour groups by hitting the beach before noon and after 5 p.m.


THE BEACH: San Fruttuoso Camogli, Italy

PICTURE THIS: From jet-setty Portofino, it's an easy 1.5-hour hike over a ridge and through the woods to a small, secluded inlet nestled among pines, olive trees, and green oaks on the Ligurian coast. Surrounded by towering cliffs and shaded by a thirteenth-century abbey, the stretch of sand skirts a small bay of clear blue water.

FIRST-PERSON NOTES: "Getting there is so beautiful. Through the woods you glimpse the little bay with its monastery. You feel like the first person to discover it, as if it were waiting just for you."

BEYOND THE BEACH TOWEL: Take the plunge: Eighteen meters down is Christ of the Depths, a bronze patron of wayward divers. Or take in the mausoleum, museum, church, and medieval tower; then wander through the nearby nature park.

PRIVACY QUOTIENT*: 4

SHORE BET: After a seafood dinner at the beachfront Ristorante da Giovanni, head to the seaside Cenobio dei Dogi Hotel, a five-minute walk from the center of Camogli ($139–$246 per night; 800-207-6900).

FINDING YOUR WAY: Hike 1.5 hours from Portofino or take a boat from Portofino or Camogli.

BEST TIME TO GO: September—the optimal mix of great weather and no crowds (it can get pretty busy May through August)


THE BEACH: Pantai Kecil (Little Beach),Padangbai, Bali

PICTURE THIS: Little Beach is a diminutive stretch of lava-flecked coral sand that graces Bali's eastern edge. Unlike the island's many overdeveloped beaches, this one is serene, with placid turquoise waters surrounded by dense tropical foliage.

FIRST-PERSON NOTES: "Calm water reflecting a pale-blue sky, clownfish darting among fan coral, and a tropical canopy create a kaleidoscopic tableau."

BEYOND THE BEACH TOWEL: Dive into the water and listen for the hum of the parrotfish nibbling on coral reefs. Take a night dive to see bioluminescent marine life show its glowing colors. Investigate nearby temples, including the bat cave of Goa Lawah, legendary home of a sacred dragon.

PRIVACY QUOTIENT*: 3

SHORE BET: Stay on the beach in the small port village of Padangbai, at the Rai Beach Inn (011-62-363-41385), where double rooms in two-story cottages rent for $20–$39.

FINDING YOUR WAY: From Denpasar's airport, take a taxi or bemo bus to Padangbai. From the port, the beach is a 15-minute hike away.

BEST TIME TO GO: March–November (the weather is cooler)


THE BEACH: Playa Rincón Samaná, Dominican Republic

PICTURE THIS: A nearly deserted four-kilometer ivory crescent tucked inside a gorgeous palm-fringed cove, the beach fronts a blue-green bay with calm, clear water. The 2,000-foot Cape Cabrón cliffs provide a backdrop; nearby are clusters of tamarind and papaya trees.

FIRST-PERSON NOTES: "On this classically beautiful beach on the Samaná Peninsula, it'll be just you, hundreds of palm trees, and crystal-clear water."

BEYOND THE BEACH TOWEL: Snorkel or dive the shallow waters, where you can spot purple fan corals. Visit nearby Cala Blanca beach, also spectacular. Explore the jungly peninsula on horseback or by bike. Take a whale-watching tour mid-January–mid-March.

PRIVACY QUOTIENT*: 3-4

SHORE BET: Each of the 11 French country–style rooms at Villa Serena is decorated individually; the lobby has a breathtaking view of the grounds and the sea. Doubles are $110–$135; call 809-538-0000. The hotel restaurant is considered the best on the peninsula.

FINDING YOUR WAY: Fly to Santo Domingo, then take a bus, ferry, or rental car (4.5 hours by car via the Duarte Highway). Or hop a small plane directly to Samaná.

BEST TIME TO GO: December through June (avoid hurricane season September through November)


THE BEACH: 'Uoleva Beach 'Uoleva, Ha'apai Group, Tonga

PICTURE THIS: At the core of one of the world's few remaining constitutional monarchies, 'Uoleva is a tiny coral smidgen just south of Lifuka. On the halcyon north shore the air is sweet with the scent of hibiscus, datura blossoms, and frangipani; the free-ranging cows and pigs outnumber the humans.

FIRST-PERSON NOTES: "The Ha'apai are the 'Friendly Islands,' a perfect place of rest and relaxation."—Captain Cook, 1773, while still blissfully unaware of the locals' plot to kill him.

BEYOND THE BEACH TOWEL: Take a walk in the bush or hike 45 minutes at low tide to Lifuka. On the northern tip, snorkel in glass-clear lagoons teeming with tropical fish.

Lifuka outfitter Roland Schwara leads overnight scuba safaris, volcano treks, and whale-watching.

PRIVACY QUOTIENT*: 1

SHORE BET: The island's only contender is the four-room backpackers' haven, Captain Cook Resort (doubles, about $13; 011-676-60-014), on the southwest coast. (Recent reports inform us that solo women travelers sometimes find this place unsuitable.) Another option is the six-room 'Evaloni Guesthouse in Pangai, Lifuka (about $10; 011-676-60-029).

FINDING YOUR WAY: From Pangai, Lifuka, take a half-hour boat ride directly to 'Uoleva or catch a 'Uiha-bound boat and ask to be dropped off at 'Uolev.

BEST TIME TO GO: December 31, 1999—when it will be one of the first places on earth to ring in the year 2000


THE BEACH: White Bay Beach Guana Island, British Virgin Islands

PICTURE THIS: The island's whitewashed village includes a cluster of stone cottages amid an 850-acre nature preserve and wildlife sanctuary filled with flowering trees and roseate flamingos. Enjoy the seemingly endless white-sand beach, or check out its six even more remote siblings—two of them reachable only by boat.

FIRST-PERSON NOTES: "This is one of the most private places in the entire Caribbean, especially since no day-trippers are allowed, and biologists from around the world help preserve it."

BEYOND THE BEACH TOWEL: Naturalists come here to explore Guana's diverse flora and fauna via numerous hiking trails. Snorkelers find 125 species of parti-colored reef fish; flamingos inhabit the lowland salt ponds.

PRIVACY QUOTIENT*: 1

SHORE BET: The 30-guest Guana Island Club (800-544-8262) owns the entire island and has an intimate, house-party atmosphere. Doubles are $625–$765 per person, including all meals and some watersports. Or rent the entire island with 29 friends for $10,900–$13,800.

FINDING YOUR WAY: Fly to Tortola's Beef Island Airport, where the Guana Island Club's chauffeur will meet you for the ten-minute boat ride to the island.

BEST TIME TO GO: Mid-December to mid-March (prices go up January–February; the resort closes for scientific research September–October)

*1= not another soul; 2= maybe a couple of other souls; 3= possibly a dozen people; 4= a few more than a dozen

—HEIDI UTZ