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Outside magazine, Annual Travel Guide

The Great American Sidecountry

WHILE SUPERJOCKS like Ruedi huff and puff up a million vertical feet each year, mortals like us can have just as much fun—without busting a lung in the process. That's where the sidecountry comes in: You can knock off thousands of feet riding the lift, then hike to virgin chutes and bowls that most people never bother to ski.

As proof that the poach-and-be-prosecuted attitude of old has shifted, Jackson Hole, that stalwart of iron boundaries, opened its sidecountry in 1999. And hiker-haven Arapahoe Basin, host of the 2000 Telemark Freeskiing Championships, is attracting more and more snowriders hungry for the fresh powder and steep terrain that's now in-bounds. Be sure to bring a partner, an avalanche transceiver, a shovel, and a map; knowledge of the terrain and conditions is either required or highly recommended at all resorts. —Philip D. Armour

Arapahoe Basin Colorado 888-272-7246 www.arapahoebasin.com Avalanche phone: 970-668-0600
Terrain	Starting Point	Lift-top Elevation	Hiking Time/ Elevation Gain	Sweat Factor
East Wall	Lenawee Lift	12,470 feet	20 minutes; 580 feet	• • •
Montezuma Bowl	Norway Lift	12,440 feet	5 minutes; 100 feet	•
The Payoff		Redcoats
At 13,050 feet, A-Basin has the highest in-bounds skiable terrain in North America and stays cold enough to run the lifts until June. The Upper East Wall will give you pause. "Umm, should I BASE jump or ski this?" Montezuma Bowl drops into the chutes and trees of Chihuahua Gulch.		They keep a rescue sled at the bottom of the East Wall. Get the picture? But hiking to Montezuma Bowl means going out-of-bounds, so check with the ski patrol first. Be prepared to hike out to Colorado 6 and to thumb it back to the resort.
Best Time/ % of Season It's Open		Boarder-to-Skier Ratio		Average Annual Snowfall†
February–March / 65%		22:78		* * *
† * = 1–250 inches * * = 251–350 inches * * * = 351+ inches Back to Top

Big Mountain Montana 406-862-1900 www.bigmtn.com Glacier County Avalanche phone: 406-758-5206
Terrain	Starting Point	Lift-top Elevation	Hiking Time/ Elevation Gain	Sweat Factor
Canyon Creek	Glacier Chaser	7,000 feet	30 minutes; 500 feet	• •
Hell Roaring Peak	Glacier Chaser	7,000 feet	30 minutes; 500 feet	• •
The Payoff		Redcoats
Glades and chutes stuffed with Montana fresh. Telemarkers flock here for the wide-open terrain and spread-out trees of the old-growth forest. The name says it all—3,000 acres of skiable mountain. Plenty to keep you busy after you've plucked all the virgin fluff.		The ski patrol posts threatening signage (e.g. DANGER) for good reason, but if you can see it, you can ski it.
Best Time/ % of Season It's Open		Boarder-to-Skier Ratio		Average Annual Snowfall†
February / 100%		30:70		* *
† * = 1–250 inches * * = 251–350 inches * * * = 351+ inches Back to Top

Bridger Bowl Montana 800-223-9609 www.bridgerbowl.com Snow phone: 406-586-2389
Terrain	Starting Point	Lift-top Elevation	Hiking Time/ Elevation Gain	Sweat Factor
The Ridge	Bridger Lift	8,100 feet	15 to 20 minutes; 600 feet	• •
The Payoff		Redcoats
Lots of terrain options, with cold and dry Montana snow. Hike up The Ridge and traverse north to the Apron and Hidden Gulley for powder fields and chutes, or south to the Nose for trees and steeps. Locals do loops up here all day long so you'll see where the sweet spots are hiding.		Steep chutes and wind loading make conditions unpredictable, and skiing with a partner, shovel, transceiver, and knowledge of terrain are mandatory. Even though these areas are avalanche-controlled and swept, don't be fooled. Drop off The Ridge, and you're committed.
Best Time/ % of Season It's Open		Boarder-to-Skier Ratio		Average Annual Snowfall†
March / 95%		30:70		* * *
† * = 1–250 inches * * = 251–350 inches * * * = 351+ inches Back to Top

Brighton/Solitude Utah Brighton: 800-873-5512 www.skibrighton.com Solitude: 800-748-4754 www.skisolitude.com Avalanche phone: 801-364-1581
Terrain	Starting Point	Lift-top Elevation	Hiking Time/ Elevation Gain	Sweat Factor
Wolverine Cirque	Brighton: Millicent Lift	10,150 feet	45 minutes; 650 feet	• • •
Wolverine Cirque	Solitude: Summit Lift	10,035 feet	45 minutes; 500 feet	• • •
The Payoff		Redcoats
Deep in the powder-heavy Wasatch mountains, Wolverine Cirque connects these two resorts. Thousand-foot chutes drop into open bowls and trees. From Brighton, the Mary Chutes, Hidden Canyon, and Pioneer are also kind. From Solitude, try the Highway to Heaven Traverse to Powerline Pass and ski into Alta, Snowbird, or Brighton.		Both resorts keep the reins loose. No official sign-out policy is on the books, but avalanche courses are offered and highly recommended. These areas are NOT avalanche-controlled.
Best Time/ % of Season It's Open		Boarder-to-Skier Ratio		Average Annual Snowfall†
Brighton: February–March / 90%		50:50		* * *
Solitude: February–March / 100%		35:65		* * *
† * = 1–250 inches * * = 251–350 inches * * * = 351+ inches Back to Top

Crested Butte Mountain Resort Colorado 800-544-8448 www.crestedbutteresort.com Snow phone: 800-544-8448 ext. 3
Terrain	Starting Point	Lift-top Elevation	Hiking Time/ Elevation Gain	Sweat Factor
Mount Crested Butte	The High Lift	11,875 feet	15 minutes; 287 feet	• •
Extreme Limits	The North Face Lift	11,400 feet	10 minutes; traverse	•
The Payoff		Redcoats
The exposed cliffs at Spellbound Bowl and the monster chutes like Banana Funnel inspired the first Extreme Skiing Championships, held here in 1991. Join an elite crew and survive the drop-in off the giant namesake cornice topping Mount Crested Butte.		The area boundaries are closed, but don't fret. There's plenty to keep you busy in-bounds. A perennial favorite on the ski-bum circuit, Crested Butte also offers free skiing when you book lodging between late November and mid-December.
Best Time/ % of Season It's Open		Boarder-to-Skier Ratio		Average Annual Snowfall†
February–March / 75%		22:78		* *
† * = 1–250 inches * * = 251–350 inches * * * = 351+ inches Back to Top

Crystal Mountain Washington 360-663-2265 www.skicrystal.com Snow phone:888-754-6199
Terrain	Starting Point	Lift-top Elevation	Hiking Time/ Elevation Gain	Sweat Factor
North Back	High Campbell Lift	7,002 feet	10 minutes; traverses	•
South Back	Green Valley Lift	6,877 feet	15–20 minutes; traverses	•
The Payoff		Redcoats
The North Back offers more adventure, with classic obstacle skiing through chutes and between trees. Try Spook Hill to the Niagaras. Like Avalanche Basin, the South Back is more open with powder fields. The ridge has the extra bonus of broad views of Mount Rainier.		As long as the area is open, exiting via the marked gates is hassle-free. But even though patrol tosses hand charges and sweeps at closing, conditions in the double-black-diamond terrain are unpredictable.
Best Time/ % of Season It's Open		Boarder-to-Skier Ratio		Average Annual Snowfall†
January–February / 90%		20:80		* * *
† * = 1–250 inches * * = 251–350 inches * * * = 351+ inches Back to Top

Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Wyoming 307-733-2292 www.jacksonhole.com Avalanche phone: 888-333-7766
Terrain	Starting Point	Lift-top Elevation	Hiking Time/ Elevation Gain	Sweat Factor
Four gates into Bridger/Teton National Forest	Jackson Hole Aerial Tram	10,450 feet	5 minutes; traverses	•
Two gates into Granite Canyon and Grand Teton N.P.	Bridger Gondola	9,095 feet	30 minutes; 500 feet	• •
The Payoff		Redcoats
The forbidden fruit awaits. After years of prosecuting poachers and compiling blacklists, the Forest Service and local officials caved in and opened Jackson's boundaries during the 1999/00 season. Count on ski-movie steeps to the south and classic Rocky Mountain powder bowls to the north, plus 4,000 feet of big vert all around.		No handholding here. Ski patrol posts avalanche reports, but that's it. Just head for the gates—backcountry access points, effectively—and you're on your own. These are serious mountains, so come prepared.
Best Time/ % of Season It's Open		Boarder-to-Skier Ratio		Average Annual Snowfall†
February–March / 90%		17:83		* * *
† * = 1–250 inches * * = 251–350 inches * * * = 351+ inches Back to Top

Mad River Glen Vermont 802-496-3551 www.madriverglen.com Snow phone: 802-496-2001
Terrain	Starting Point	Lift-top Elevation	Hiking Time/ Elevation Gain	Sweat Factor
North side of General Stark Mountain	Drive to top of Appalachian Gap	2,800 feet	30 minutes; 500 feet	• •
South side of General Stark Mountain	Single Chair	3,637 feet	5 minutes; traverse	•
The Payoff		Redcoats
Phenn Basin in Camel Hump State Forest on the north side hides glades and tree skiing, while gullies dropping to The Barn lodge via the south side and the nineteenth and twentieth holes are steep. As they say, ski it if you can.		Boundaries are open and the resort even sells single-ride tickets. The "three-and-three rule" is encouraged—ski in groups of three and not after three o'clock. Areas NOT avalanche-controlled.
Best Time/ % of Season It's Open		Boarder-to-Skier Ratio		Average Annual Snowfall†
February–March / 100%		Skiers-only on the lifts		*
† * = 1–250 inches * * = 251–350 inches * * * = 351+ inches Back to Top

Mount Bachelor Oregon 800-829-2442 www.mtbachelor.com Avalanche phone: 800-829-2442 (ask for the ski patrol)
Terrain	Starting Point	Lift-top Elevation	Hiking Time/ Elevation Gain	Sweat Factor
The Summit (Chutes 1–4)	Summit Express	9,065 feet	10 minutes; 35 feet	•
The Payoff		Redcoats
The concept is simple: one snow-covered conical volcano, ski anywhere. Note the wind loading, solar exposure, and crowds, and head in any direction. Chutes 1–4 to the east are steep and deep, while the northwest has more tree runs. A cat track ringing the mountain's base leads back to the lifts.		As the bulk of the mountain is available, most skiing is in-bounds and avalanche-controlled. The frequent storms often close The Summit, so check with the patrol if you're simply itching to climb.
Best Time/ % of Season It's Open		Boarder-to-Skier Ratio		Average Annual Snowfall†
Mid-December / 100%		35:65		* * *
† * = 1–250 inches * * = 251–350 inches * * * = 351+ inches Back to Top

Mount Baker Washington 360-734-6771 www.mtbakerskiarea.com Snow phone: 360-734-6771
Terrain	Starting Point	Lift-top Elevation	Hiking Time/ Elevation Gain	Sweat Factor
Blueberry Cat Track	Chair 1	4,800 feet	Up to an hour; 350 feet	• •
Shuksan Arm	Chair 8	5,000 feet	15–45 minutes; 350 feet	• •
Hemispheres	Chair 8	5,000 feet	45 minutes; 700 feet	• • •
The Payoff		Redcoats
Snow, and lots of it. Mount Baker measured a world's record annual snowfall of 1,140 inches during the El Niño–powered season of 1998/99. These guys offer beginner avalanche seminars for a reason. Chutes, powder fields, and tree-speckled gladessurround the resort, and it's all there for the picking.		You can duck out anywhere you choose, but be prepared to show the right stuff. Ski patrol checks for a demonstrated knowledge of the terrain, your route, the current forecast, the conditions, general snow science, and transceiver use. They also enforce group travel and inspect your equipment.
Best Time/ % of Season It's Open		Boarder-to-Skier Ratio		Average Annual Snowfall†
Mid-December / 100%		40:60		* * *
† * = 1–250 inches * * = 251–350 inches * * * = 351+ inches Back to Top

Squaw Valley USA California 530-583-6985 www.squaw.com Snow phone: 530-583-6955
Terrain	Starting Point	Lift-top Elevation	Hiking Time/ Elevation Gain	Sweat Factor
Palisades	Siberia Express	8,700 feet	20 minutes; 200 feet	• •
Granite Chief Peak	Granite Chief	8,700 feet	20 minutes; 250 feet	• •
Mainline Pocket	Emigrant	8,600 feet	20 minutes; 100 feet	•
The Payoff		Redcoats
They don't call it Squawllywood for nothing. Land of the Beautiful People, Squaw delivers on every level. Hit the Palisades for steep chutes, Granite Chief Peak for trees and glades, and Mainline Pocket for midwinter powder.		Squaw's boundaries are firmly closed—duck a rope and risk prosecution. The mountain is privately owned (a rarity in the industry), raising tricky liability issues with neighboring public lands. But with high-quality terrain perfectly in-bounds, who cares? All three areas are controlled and subject to closure.
Best Time/ % of Season It's Open		Boarder-to-Skier Ratio		Average Annual Snowfall†
February–April / 75% Palisades 50%		45:55		* * *
† * = 1–250 inches * * = 251–350 inches * * * = 351+ inches Back to Top

Stowe Mountain Resort Vermont 800-253-4754 www.stowe.com Snow phone: 802-253-3600
Terrain	Starting Point	Lift-top Elevation	Hiking Time/ Elevation Gain	Sweat Factor
Mount Mansfield	Gondola	3,600 feet	50 minutes; 795 feet	• • •
The Payoff		Redcoats
Fun terrain features and steeps are the reward for hoofing it up Mount Mansfield—the highest in Vermont—and at 4,395 feet, the view ain't bad either. Locals prefer the backside of The Chin, but be prepared for a hike back to civilization.		Avoid the sensitive arctic alpine vegetation at the wind-scoured summit of Mount Mansfield and follow established boot paths. To minimize impact, ski the summertime hiking trails and bring a map. Out-of-bounds is NOT avalanche-controlled.
Best Time/ % of Season It's Open		Boarder-to-Skier Ratio		Average Annual Snowfall†
February / 100%		25:75		* *
† * = 1–250 inches * * = 251–350 inches * * * = 351+ inches Back to Top

Sugar Bowl California 530-426-9000 www.sugarbowl.com Snow phone: 530-426-1111
Terrain	Starting Point	Lift-top Elevation	Hiking Time/ Elevation Gain	Sweat Factor
Donner Summit Backcountry via Mount Judah and Anderson Ridge	Judah Express Quad	7,800 feet	25 minutes; 438 feet	• •
The Payoff		Redcoats
Sierra cement builds the kind of monolithic snowpack that corn lovers wait for all season. Come April, who needs champagne powder when you have a 15-foot base and the California sun? This is go-anywhere snow and big, varied terrain. Carve double black diamonds off Crow's Peak.		The open boundaries are not advertised per se, but you can buy a $10 one-time lift ticket for the Judah Express Quad to approach Mount Judah. Bring a partner, transceiver, shovel, maps, and knowledge of current conditions—this is wilderness, after all. Remember the Donner Party?
Best Time/ % of Season It's Open		Boarder-to-Skier Ratio		Average Annual Snowfall†
April / 100%		35:65		* * *
† * = 1–250 inches * * = 251–350 inches * * * = 351+ inches Back to Top

Taos Ski Valley New Mexico 505-776-2291 www.skitaos.org Snow phone: 505-776-2916
Terrain	Starting Point	Lift-top Elevation	Hiking Time/ Elevation Gain	Sweat Factor
Kachina Peak	Lift 2	11,819 feet	45 minutes; 633 feet	• • •
The West Basin	Lift 2	11,819 feet	15 minutes; 80 feet	•
The Payoff		Redcoats
A 1,600-foot drop at 40 degrees, Main Street off Kachina Peak is a North American classic. And at several hundred feet wide, you've got plenty of room for big, New School carves. The myriad chutes, rock bands, and ledges to choose from make for creative descents down the West Basin.		The boundaries are closed, but if The Ridge, which connects Kachina Peak and West Basin, is open, it's yours. Ski with a partner and note the conditions. Snowboarders are stubbornly prohibited (look for the ubiquitous FREE TAOS bumper stickers).
Best Time/ % of Season It's Open		Boarder-to-Skier Ratio		Average Annual Snowfall†
February–April / 70%		Skiers only		* *
† * = 1–250 inches * * = 251–350 inches * * * = 351+ inches Back to Top