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Outside Traveler 2004
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Family Vacations
The Haida Life (cont)

Access and Resources
To learn more about Haida culture, visit the Totem Heritage Center (907-225-5900, www.city.ketchikan.ak.us) in Ketchikan (where you catch the ferry to Prince of Wales Island), home to the world's largest collection of 19th-century totem poles. The poles are from the Haida and Tlingit nations. Exhibits of beadwork, moccasins, baskets, and blankets are housed in the Tongass Historical Museum, a ten-minute walk away. The center runs craft workshops September through April. Also consider these family-friendly activities on Prince of Wales Island, which has some of North America's most rugged terrain:

Canoe the Sarkar Lake Canoe Route. This moderate 15-mile route winds through six lakes secluded in an old-growth spruce-hemlock-cedar forest that shelters wolves, black bears, and Sitka blacktail deer. The fly-fishing is excellent. There is a Forest Service cabin at the beginning of the route ($35 per night; reservations, 877-444-6777 or www.reserveusa.com) and boardwalks to ease the six portages. Southeast Paddle Sports (907-826-2720) in the island town of Craig rents canoes for $25 per day.

Tour El Capitan Cave. The Forest Service (907-828-3304) offers tours of this three-level limestone cavern, with 12,512 feet of passageways, Thursdays through Sundays in summer. Evidence of ancient civilizations, like two obsidian arrowheads dating to 1,400 B.C., have been found in the 40-degree fissure. Tours are free and helmets are provided; bring your own flashlight.

Go deep-sea fishing. Charter companies dock three- to five-passenger boats in Craig and take clients in search of salmon and halibut swimming among humpback whales. Tours start at $230 per person per day, gear included. Contact the Prince of Wales Chamber of Commerce (907-755-2626, www.princeofwalescoc.org).

Several Hydaburg residents run impromptu B&Bs. Call the tribal office in Hydaburg (907-285-3666) for details.
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