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Outside Traveler 2004
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Take the Yellow Jersey Tour (cont.)

The U.S. Postal Service team leader, however, isn't taking anything for granted. "Alpe d'Huez has nothing to do with Chamrousse," Armstrong said. He's right. Chamrousse's ascent is taxing but gradual, while Alpe d'Huez is a wall, a psychotic procession of cruel switchbacks that Armstrong will nonetheless gobble in about 38 minutes (meaning he'll average more than 13 miles per hour), according to Chris Carmichael, the rider's longtime personal coach.

Ready to ride? First take Carmichael's advice (see training-plan, page 3), and then drive east 33 miles from Grenoble on the N91 road to Bourg d'Oisans. The N91 is a rideable highway, but it's traffic-congested. Better to rent a car in Grenoble and make Alpe d'Huez a day trip.

To begin the climb, pedal N91 about half a mile east from Bourg d'Oisans and hang a left onto the D211. Within 50 feet a crosswalk plays the part of start ribbon; to its right, a broad white sign marks the ascent's opening salvo. The finish of the climb, also marked, is at the end of Avenue du Rif Nel in Alpe d'Huez, the bustling village near the mountain's top. Mortal riders should allow at least two hours to cycle up and down.

The road is open year-round, but wait till mid-April, when winter weather risks recede. Each of the 21 switchbacks is marked with a signpost (emblazoned with the name of an Alpe d'Huez stage winner), counting down from 21 at the bottom to switchback 1 up top. One bit of caution for your morale: After signpost 16, the road levels onto a short plateau, granting a first glance at the distant summit; the wicked scar zigzagging skyward taunts that the worst is yet to come.

Catch your breath at the summit, but don't leave without visiting the tourist office, which issues diplomas to all who survive the climb (and fork out $1.25). Mine says I did it in 15 minutes and 26 seconds—but that's because the staff will write in whatever time you tell them. Even if it's obvious air guitar.


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