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Outside Traveler 2004
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Out There: Hawaiian Road Trip
Holoholo Hawaii

DAY TWO: You'll barely get behind the wheel today, driving less than ten miles south on Route 11 to the town of Captain Cook. Watch the local fishing boats trail home just before sunset, when you'll swim with massive
The Big Island, Day by Day
The Big Island, Day by Day
1. The surf off Kailua-Kona
2. Manta ray
3. Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
4. Roadside harvest
5. Mauna Kea's cinder cones
6. Waipio Valley
manta rays in the waters off the Kona Coast, perhaps the best place in the world to see them. The largest mantas here, with wingspans of 16 feet, feed on vast amounts of plankton, which are attracted to bright lights placed on the ocean floor by scuba divers. Jack's Diving Locker takes divers and snorkelers on sunset charters. For snorkelers, the view from above is just as striking: streams of bubbles dancing among schools of glittering fish and, more often than not, the silhouette of a hungry manta swooping by. If the main attractions don't show, there are plenty of competent understudies: long, translucent-yellow trumpetfish, and green sea turtles snoozing in a coral cave.

Bunk tonight at the funky 16-room Manago Hotel in Captain Cook, near the Kealakekua Bay Marine Sanctuary. A popular hangout for soldiers during World War II, Manago is still a favorite for clean, affordable rooms; the coolest by far is the Japanese room, with tatami mats, traditional screens, and an ocean-view balcony.


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