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Out There: Hawaiian Road Trip Holoholo Hawaii DAY FOUR: Continue north about an hour to Hilo, where Route 11 becomes Route 19, and stop for a kayak excursion off the Big Island's unofficial capital. Fronted by black-sand shores, banyan trees, and picturesque green parks, Hilo has a small-town feel that's reminiscent of old Hawaii. The Hilo Bay coastline is laced with sheltered coves, inlets, and beach lagoons where you can paddle in for a closer look. Hawaii's trade winds usually approach from the northeast and dump precipitation on the windward side of the mountains (i.e., squarely on Hilo). The result: out-of-control papaya trees and blooming ginger by the roadside. Don't miss Hilo's impressive farmers market on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Another place to refuel: Wilson's by the Bay, for the best shaved ice. At the meticulously restored historic Shipman House Bed and Breakfast Inn in Hilo, the ripe array of apple bananas, pineapples, and liliko‘i (passion fruit) growing in the backyard also make welcome appearances at the morning table.
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