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Outside Traveler 2004
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Out There: Hawaiian Road Trip
Holoholo Hawaii

DAY FIVE: For stellar hiking, head 34 miles from Hilo to Mauna Kea—at 13,796 feet, its summit, often snowcapped, is a prime location for world-class observatories. Up top, you'll find unparalleled views of Haleakala Crater on neighboring Maui. The approach begins on Saddle Road between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, the island's two largest volcanoes. Hawaii Forest & Trail runs summit tours at sunset with naturalist guides and some of the world's best stargazing. You can also take a more adventurous route up Mauna Kea on your own, but bring plenty of water and warm gear—after all, this is where you'll find Lake Waiau, Hawaii's only alpine lake, fed by snowmelt. The trek to the summit from the visitor center, at 9,300 feet, makes for a strenuous 16-mile round-trip.

At day's end, return to your digs at the Shipman House. Sit back on a wooden rocker and browse century-old travel books beneath towering palms.



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