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Outside Traveler 2004
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In Search of El Dorado (cont.)

argentina, ibera swamps, piranhas, dorado
ACCESS + RESOURCES
The best times to visit the Iberá wetlands are March to May and September to November (the fishing peaks in December, which is also the hottest month). Buses leave for Mercedes several times a day from Buenos Aires; the capital's massive bus terminal, Terminal de Omnibus de Buenos Aires (011-54-1143-100707), is at the corner of Antártida Argentina and Calle 10 in the Retiro barrio, about 25 miles northeast of the international airport. The nine-hour bus ride costs between $46 and $54. An alternative is to catch a domestic flight on Aerolineas Argentinas ($212 round-trip; 800-333-0276, www.aerolineas.com.ar) from Buenos Aires to the city of Corrientes, capital of the province of the same name. Flights leave from Jorge Newbery Airport, which is a couple miles northeast of downtown Buenos Aires, in the Palermo district. From Corrientes, it's a three-hour bus ride to Mercedes. Estancia El Dorado reservations and pickup arrangements must be made in advance with Carlos Sanchez (011-54-3773-420660, eldorado@ibera.net). Rates are $250 per day, including lodging, excellent family-style meals, a guide, a boat, and transportation. Book a seven-day trip, including international airfare, for $2,995 (double occupancy) through the U.S.-based Center for Argentina Tourism (800-216-0049, www.argentina-tourism.com).
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