THE GREAT AMERICAN DESERT The Land of Clear Light
Ed Abbey and John the Baptist were both hip to the same truth: Deserts are the place to go when you're ready for a wild detour off the beaten path. Whether you're into camping, hiking, biking, kayaking, or canyoneering, we've got the how-to essentials in our packed guide to the 16 best trips in 500,000 glorious square miles of North American desert.
The Sonoran
Ride fine singletrack in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. By Jonathan HansonPlus: Backpacking in the Superstition Mountains; sea kayaking off Isla del Tiburón.
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The Great Basin Climb and hike the slot canyons of Escalante National Monument. By Rob StoryPlus: Exploring Paria Canyon; llama trekking in the San Rafael Swell.
The Mojave
Surrender to coyote serenades in Joshua Tree. By Robert Earl HowellsPlus: Backpacking the Inyo Mountains Wilderness; climbing Red Rock Canyon.
The Chihuahuan Take spring break on the Mexican side of Big Bend. By Peter HellerPlus: Hiking the Guadalupe Mountains; frolicking in White Sands National Monument.
Walking the Line
In a world turned upside down after September 11, a timely meditation on the joys (and limitations) of heading for the hills. By Jack Turner
The Wild File
How do you name a mountain? Why don't we get thunderstorms in the winter? When you throw chum into the ocean, how quickly does its scent travel to sharks? How much horsepower can a human generate? By Brad Wetzler
Field Notes
Once upon a time, Pope John Paul II played hooky to grab powder turns in the Tatra Mountains. Now, carving His Holiness's home slopes, the writer finds that Poland remains a heavenly
place to ski. By Lisa Anne Auerbach
Books The Birds of Heaven, by Peter Matthiessen; Edward Abbey, by James M. Cahalan; Adventures with Ed, by Jack Loeffler; The Last Cowboys at the End of the World, by Nick Reding; and Loaded, by Robert Sabbag.