Team denied summit, but spirits still high

Dispatch from Michelle Olson — July 27, 1997

The team will always remember Mount Sir Sandford

At 3 a.m. we all woke up wide-eyed. Today was our first and only Mount Sir Sandford summit attempt.

Bill stuck his head out of the tent to check the weather. He then enthusiastically informed the rest of our eager ears, "Wake up! We're going to climb the mountain today!" We hurriedly put on our clothes and scattered, with only the bulbs from our headlamps to light the way.

We started the stove for hot drinks — we certainly needed something to warm us up as it was very cold outside. The sky outside was filled with huge, brilliant stars and was completely cold with a crescent moon shining brightly (the only natural light we had). The snow glowed with an aqua-blue presence and the mountains stood tall in the shadows of the cold night. We had a quick breakfast of potatoes and leftover rice. We then headed off for the mountain.

First we put on our crampons and spiked our way up steep, crisp snow to the col. While we heartily headed on our way, we saw the sun rise with a glow I've never seen before. It was a warm copper glow coming from the tips of mountains the new-found sun had hit.

We soon passed the col to find ourselves scrambling over crumbling marble slabs up the ridge, occasionally finding a much-welcome cairn. Then we roped up again. Judd, John, and I were on one rope team, with Del, Stan, and Morgan on the other. The teams split briefly — Judd's team took the snow route further up the mountain while Del's team took the rock.

After these extensive, time-consuming stretches of terrain, we found ourselves straddling thin ledges and climbing thin cracks in the rocks, fully exposed to the ground below. The travel was slow due to the knowledge that one slip would mean a 1,000-foot vertical drop onto a snow-covered glacier and, ultimately, death.

This particular part took immense time and by the time we reached the bottom of the hourglass (a little less than halfway) it was 12:30 p.m. It had taken us about eight hours to get that far. The view from the ridge was spectacular. It is something we could have never believed existed if we hadn't seen it in person. And that was forever.

We were on the same level of the clouds and far above the mountains in the distance. Here we had an emotional meeting. Time was running out on us and it was the only thing holding us back from summitting. We needed more experience and skill to complete the mountain in one day.

Emotions were high over the disappointment and there was a sense of loss. There was also an air of pride that we had already accomplished so much, pushing ourselves to the limit and giving the expedition 100 percent.

The journey has been amazing, and although our destination was not reached, we have no regrets. We have great memories, experiences, and knowledge to take with us wherever we go and to share with whomever will listen.

On the mountain today, strong bonds were made. We connected. We were truly a team. This has been by far the most meaningful and wonderful experience in all our lives.

The team will report again tomorrow from Golden.