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Scott Fischer returns to Everest

Expedition report from Kathmandu -- Wednesday, March 27

Yesterday the team members arrived off the flight from hell. Delayed in L.A. one day. Then Thai Air to Bangkok. Followed by a transfer to Delhi, only to wait there from 1 a.m. to 11 a.m. We are missing three bags that did not make it on the flight from L.A.; they're now somewhere in space.

Moreover, Mountain Madness got popped extra money for extra baggage from Bangkok to Delhi which was paid in full in L.A.. Hundreds. The baggage receipt was given to a counter person in Bangkok, but the other airline didn't believe that the bags had been fully paid (as Thai Air took the receipt), thus they demanded extra money for excess baggage. What a nightmare! Extra hotel costs, food, etc. Most likely about a $1,800-plus dent.

So people wonder why it costs so much. It's impossible to have a massive, highly detailed affair fly without many hitches. Building in thousands of extra dollars is necessary--officials want extra cash, airlines want it, porters want it, ground operators need it, I want it, you want it. You get the drift.


Yesterday (March 26) I accompanied Scott to the Ministry of Tourism to obtain the "official" permit. Partially due to the Sagarmatha Environmental Expedition in '94, the Ministry of Tourism has implemented an environmental "watchdog" program. A set of rules regarding environmental practices has been implemented. A liaison stays (or is supposed to) at base camp to make sure the expeditions follow environmental guidelines. Moreover, the liaison officer is required to "help" should there be any difficult problems. Expedition members share the cost of this official, approximately $1,500.


As for the weather conditions, apparently the weather is bad all the way to Everest base camp. Yaks are still unable to make it to base camp and continue to be stalled at the 16,000-foot level because of snow. It's rainy, snowy, and foggy. Hopefully, by the time we start the trek (on the 29th) the snow will be melted, and it will be sunny and 55 degrees. (As I mentioned earlier, bad weather doubles porter price.)

The first Taiwanese climbing expedition will attempt Mount Everest when we are there. The leader is Makalu Gao. As you know, Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain. In Chinese "gao" means "high." Kind of funny that his surname is Gao.

More to come.

-- Jane Bromet





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