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We arrived at base camp on Tuesday, April 9. The trek up was great. No weather problems. Some, including myself, felt altitude sickness: headache, nausea, loss of appetite, etc. After two days at elevation, most of these symptoms began to fade.

Now in base camp at 5,350 meters (approximately 18,000 feet) and some of the team members are still working through the latest bout of altitude sickness; some really got hit hard.

No matter how strong and conditioned a climber might be, adjusting to the altitude is of utmost importance and is just part of life. Having said that, no one really ever adjusts to the altitude between 7,000 and 7,500 meters, which is approximately Camp III. Of course, there are a few human anomalies like Scott Fischer, Ed Viesturs, Lapsong Sherpa, and some of the other high-altitude Sherpas who just blow everyone's mind.

Today, Scott's team made the first attempt through the Khumbu Icefall. Apparently it is in great shape and not as dangerous as in past years. However, climbing on ladders over huge open crevasses is always daunting. All the team members did very well. Due to the relentless sunshine, they were fairly exhausted upon arrival at base camp. They started at 4 a.m. It was 15 degrees (Fahrenheit) when they left after a quick breakfast. They went through the Icefall to Camp I and then back.

Personally speaking, the Khumbu Icefall looks like the most treacherous piece of real estate on Earth. Huge crevasses, massive ice blocks the size of large buildings, gashes through glimmering ice fields--it just has to be seen to be believed. I've seen hundreds of Scott's photos, but nothing prepared me for such a sight. Gotta see it yourself.

Yesterday, the team had a puja. This is a Buddhist ceremony that blesses the climbers. All climbing teams are required to participate in a puja before they climb. Scott's puja was great fun. After Buddhist chanting, rice throwing, and drinking chang (home-brewed liquor), everyone was having a jolly good time. Other teams came over to join in the festivities--some rum, vodka, chang, sweets, etc. Kind of reminded me of Simhat Torah, a Jewish celebration where everyone gets pretty happy.

One a more somber note, one of Rob Hall's climbing Sherpas had a serious accident between Camp I and Camp II. He fell into a crevasse and broke his femur. The Sherpa was stuck for two days without medical attention. Finally, a group of about 20 Sherpas were able to tie him to a ladder and bring him down through the Icefall. Unsung Sherpa heroes. At base camp he was airlifted down to Kathmandu.

More to come, including the story of this Swedish guy who rode his bicycle from Sweden to Kathmandu. Wild story.

-- Jane Bromet