Scott Fischer on Attitude

The team is now beginning the acclimatization process to Camp II. Most members have been up, but some find that altitude acclimatization is tough. Charlotte Fox is especially strong and seems to be particularly prepared.

Wednesday morning, base camp was getting snow. I left for Pheriche with Andy De Clerk of the South African expedition. During the five-hour walk down, we traveled in a snowstorm and approximately four inches fell. We arrived cold and wet.

At base camp and Camp I, team members experienced a full-on snowfall. According to Scott, it was difficult to even find Camp I. Luckily, there is no epic story to tell, but it was hair-raising.

The icefall is now constantly used by Sherpas and expedition members. I gathered that it's decent this year. But at certain points--like over the ladders--one does not want to misstep. No accidents as yet.

Scott's doctor became altitude sick at base camp and had to recover in a village at a lower elevation. Another expedition member was also suffering from serious headaches and had to descend to a lower altitude.

Generally speaking, the group gets along well. Some of the other teams at base camp have not been so lucky. The South African expedition completely dissolved. The leader was a serious control freak. The Sunday Times--the sponsor and South Africa's largest paper--gave more than $1 million toward the expedition. But the fact is, the leader just went crazy with control. For instance, he told expedition members they were not allowed to use Diamox--a non-threatening acclimatization pill that works wonders. Nope, he said, no one on the team could use it. Anyway, many stories like this.

Andy De Clerk was on his way down to the Tengboche heli-airport. As I mentioned, he quit the expedition. Now the sponsor--The Sunday Times--wants to sponsor just Andy, but now as part of Scott Fischer's team. Scott just called me looking for Andy. He's near Namche Bazaar somewhere, sailing around on his paraglider. Where are you, Andy?

The South African expedition was a major debacle! Andy is the hero--but he doesn't know it yet. Since Scott welcomed Andy to climb with the team, The Sunday Times liked Scott very much and it's a go if we can find Andy in the Khumbu Valley.

A bit of funny news. A Norwegian is touting himself as someone who will "solo" Mount Everest. He forgot to say that he hired 12 high-altitude climbing Sherpas to "solo" with him. Guess it's a "solo" if you are white? The high-altitude Sherpas are beyond human. It's unreal that so many climbers get the goodies and gee-whiz, the Sherpas get some used boots and sometimes receive a decent paycheck. Certainly, it's my belief these guys are the unsung heroes.

At the other extreme, a Swede is attempting to solo. Apparently he is not using the fixed ropes in the Khumbu Icefall and is beating his own path. Extraordinarily dangerous.

There is a 17-year-old American boy on one expedition now at base camp. Some local doctors are worried about him "bonking"--"hitting the wall"--due to severe physical deterioration at altitude.

Scott, Ed Viesturs, and Rob Hall are hoping to climb Manaslu after Mount Everest. If successful, they will be the first Americans to solo. More on that later.

-- Jane Bromet